Gateway to India

Where: 6565 Kimball Drive, Gig Harbor, 253.851.2688

Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5 p.m.-9 p.m. Monday through Friday, noon-3 p.m. and 5 p.m. - 9:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

Cuisine: Northern Indian

Scene: Casual to nice, family friendly

Drinkies: Liquor, chai teas, specialty beers and wines

Prices: $2.50-$22.95

ANNOUNCER: Unlike Tacoma's condo boom, expansion has been a good thing for the brother team behind Gateway to India. Tacoma's popular North Indian restaurant now has a sister site in Gig Harbor. Opening in November 2009, just as promised by co-owner C.J. Singh, the bigger kitchen with extra broilers at Gig Harbor's Gateway to India mean more meat dishes and a larger variety of food from different regions of India. But authentic Northern Indian fare remains the menu staple. As in Tacoma, pricing is fair; customer service is on point, and an inexpensive, appealing lunch buffet is offered. What sets Gig Harbor apart from Tacoma? Loads of parking, updated air conditioning, warm weather patio seating, and cocktails.

JAKE: Well, well, well, Gateway to India looked pretty swanky. Why does everything seem better across the bridge? Is it because there are not years of wear and tear and the grit of the city? I think so. Look at Le Le's in Uptown shopping center. Gig Harbor has always had that new town smell, too.

JASON: Speaking of Uptown, I'm thinking new money smell.

JAKE: Pappdi chat, an appetizer recommended by our server, consisted of a yogurt-based sauce spiced with a mild jalapeño chutney, sweet and tangy tamarind, and an Indian salsa over crisp thin chips. I would have liked it better if the chips were separate. They got soggy too fast, but the taste was complex and fantastic. No wonder it's so popular.

JASON: It reminded me of when cereal sits too long; mush is not a good thing. I scooped the sauce onto warm, fresh naan bread. It's so soft and billowy, a perfect pusher for all the delicious sauces in Indian food. I'm kind of a purest when it comes to naan even though Gateway makes it with garlic, paneer (a mild cheese), potato and peas, fresh mint, onion, spinach. There are 11 different kinds - even a sweet one made with nuts and fruit.

JAKE: Mulligatawny lentil soup was served next. A creamy blend of chicken, curry, lemon and ginger, it was a perfect texture switch after the crunchy appetizer. It wasn't overly hot; still, it made my nose run.

JASON: I ordered lamb, the shahi gosht korma. Yes, I always order lamb, but I had to make sure the food quality made it out to the Harbor. I happily report that tender, savory and awesome can be used to describe this Bambi. Topped with sliced almonds, the full meat flavor of ultra tender lamb still stood out in this slowly simmered, boneless dish with yogurt-based sauce with savory garlic and ginger. Basmati rice was fluffy, moist and aromatic.

JAKE: Uh, Bambi was a deer, you idiot. You mean, "bah bah black sheep, have you any wool?" You are such a tool at times. Mutter, which is green peas and cubes of paneer cheese, is complemented by tomatoes, garlic, and ginger for a super common and easily accessible Northern Indian curry dish. One thing I've always enjoyed at the Gateway in Tacoma is that vegetarian options are not the usual salad, pasta primavera or stir-fry. They're full-fledged dishes standing on their own, not just ones that usually have meat as a focal point and are now without. I'm glad to see this has been continued at the Gig Harbor location.

JASON: Am I repeating myself here? I'd say that sentiment extends to most everything - staff friendliness, prompt service, speed of our food being cooked, quality, and price. And the dessert, do not forget dessert. Mango pudding, ginger ice cream, and julab gamun (sugary soaked donut-like dumplings) are stellar, but I have always been a fan of the rice dessert dish, chawal ki kheer. It's sweet, milky, cardamom infused, and served chilled.