This spring the Funky Iguana Mexican restaurant moved from South 38th Street to a larger location on South Cedar across from Marlene's Market. El Gallito Loco opened in the vacated space in June. Gallito is a Mexican sandwich shop managed by Maria Ray and her husband. With only a handful of booths, the casual eatery is cozy.

"The torta is like a Mexican version of French bread, it's not a tortilla at all," says Ray. Tortas ($6.50) come with choice of baked ham, freshly grilled chicken breast, sirloin steak or milanesa (breaded steak). Topped with shredded lettuce, diced tomato, white onion and jalapenos, the Cotija cheese and avocado add a tangy creamy quality. These same ingredients top the "Mexican hot dog "($7.50).

"Our clientele tends to be more American than Mexican, so we offer other stuff, too," says Ray, referring to the all-beef hot dogs, deli sandwiches served on white or wheat bread (toasted upon request) and mixed green salads. Vegetable beef and chicken noodle soup, chili and clam chowder are made in-house. "We make things to order; it's cooked fresh here," says Ray.  - JJ

[El Gallito Loco, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday-Friday, closed Saturday, 2941 So. 38th St., Tacoma, 253.254.7024]