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Solid execution

Cooks Tavern near Proctor doing great work

Cooks Tavern in Tacoma brings well-crafted food to the North End. Photo credit: Jake de Paul

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ANNOUNCER: Open for several months now, Cooks Tavern near Tacoma's Proctor District has found an audience - diners that like well-crafted food in a light, easy-going environment with plenty of unique twists on the menu to keep things interesting.  Though, why call it a tavern?

JASON: Why they named a restaurant with a bar a tavern I'm not sure.  I had to call to make sure I could bring my son with us, which, in a way, is inconvenient.  On their website, right at the top they define the word tavern as if knowing the name would cause confusion.  Most places, a tavern is for adults 21 years of age and older.  I got over it because the food is great ... but I'm just saying.

JAKE: With tavern in the name, I was happy to find more than beer available.  In fact, Cooks offers some very creative cocktails like The State Fair made of gin, lemon, rhubarb simple syrup and bubbles.  I also liked the A Day at the Races, a combination of Jack, peach brandy, mint and simple syrup.  

JASON: They drew a good crowd on a Saturday evening - the place was packed with couples and families.  I liked the light, openness of the space, with lots of windows.  The staff is well-versed with the menu but not pompous, and when they grabbed my wife's wine glass (with wine still in it), they apologized and brought back more than was stolen.  

JAKE: There are some great small plates available including salads, mac n cheese and even clams that have been steamed in apple cider. But the South Sound smalls is what sets Cooks apart from the rest of the menu with local treats like wild-caught Coho salmon, pan-fried local oysters and a duck confit fried rice with a little spicy oil and fresh pineapple sesame slaw to balance it out.

JASON: The duck fried rice reminded me more of risotto than friend rice, but either way, it was delicious.  The special presented the night we dined was lamb chops perfectly prepared with a light berry drizzle.  

JAKE: There are several main dishes that are guaranteed crowd pleasers.  The lemon chicken, cast iron steak, and even the breakfast for dinner (BFD) of waffles, bacon and eggs are certain to catch your eye.  My server could not stop raving about the shift meal, and so I gave it a shot.  Her excitement was clearly justified as the linguine, which I had topped with chicken, was wonderfully seasoned with a garlic and Calabria chili combination.

JASON: The dessert menu also had a few twists and turns but we settled on the strawberry and rhubarb grunt (think crisp).  A nice touch of lemon zest and granola with vanilla ice cream on the top, the combination finished the meal nicely without being sickening sweet.  

Cooks Tavern, 3201 N. 26th St., Tacoma, 253.327.1777, cookstavern.com

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