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Mex-Asian fusion

When countries collide

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I recently returned from Acapulco jazzed by the Mexican chefs’ creations. Forget the stunning views and warm tropical nights of this southern Mexican city of two million people — these creative folk are fusing Mexican and Asian flavors that cry Viva Flavor!

Shrimp medallions with ginger and mango sauce and chipolte and tamarind sauce with white rice and fried bananas; rigatoni with goat cheese, tomato salsa, basil and dried Thai chili; and even achiote-hoisin short ribs — the East meets West flavors beat chips and salsa any day of the week. Smokey, sweet and pungent — the tastebuds fight for their lives, but in a good way.



Flying home I felt sad to leave Acapulco for many reasons, but I suspect the food leaves the largest hole in my heart. Not one to cry over spilled Cadillac Margarita, however, I am ready to dust off the beach sand and recommend a few homegrown ways to keep the magic alive.



First, however, a primer — the newly opened Vinum (1001 Pacific Ave, Tacoma) offers a Spanish Egg Roll that kicks a little nalgas (see review on page 10). They should rename the roll a log — it packs a huge helping of Mexican seasoned chicken and black beans in an Asian style wrap. Let’s hope it starts a trend in our area.



Two tastes that taste great together. Or, hey you got your tortilla chip in my peanut sauce.

The South Sound is blessed with excellent Asian cuisine. Luckily tall fences along our coast escaped Congress’s imagination, and our immigration policies toward Asian chefs remain open and inviting. Outstanding flavors from Korea, Japan and Thailand, mostly, continue to float to our shores and establish themselves in not just holes-in-the-wall but increasingly upscale and trendy establishments as well.



Slow to catch up, however, are the flavors from our Southern neighbors — meaning actual south-of-the-border recipes — but they do continue to slowly expand our taste buds, giving us authentic dishes from Mexico and Central America.



In the interest of food science, therefore, I can’t but help imagine making my own Mex-Asian fusion. While I can’t simply pick up goat stew (birria) from Vuelve A La Vida (5310 Pacific Ave., Tacoma) and throw it into my Hot Pot at Tacoma Szechuan (9601 S. Tacoma Way, Lakewood), I could serve both on my dinner plate and at least get close to the real deal. Here are several of my dream team Mex-Asian meals.

Dinner One

Speaking of Tacoma Szechuan, the South Sound’s ONLY authentic Chinese eatery, their Chicken Kung Pao deserves a spot on half my plate. The classic mix of sautéed white chicken breast, diced with crunchy root vegetables in a spicy, delicate sauce refuses to disappoint. Next to that, I’d like a steaming bowl of menudo — the mild Mexican peasant soup of chopped tripe and hominy that Tacos Guaymas, a 20-chain, fast-food type restaurant (that include a Tacoma and Lakewood location), serves weekends as a hangover remedy.

Dinner Two

Pile the Korean barbecue, or more specifically short ribs on my plate so I can eat like a Viking. The best place — The Palace Restaurant (8718 S. Tacoma Way, Lakewood), where the fairly lean meat arrives in a sweet sauce, and the heat of the bones nearly strips the prints off the fingertips. Next to those beauties, I’d like a pork taco — simple, braised and shredded pork with a little heat served on a hand-pounded soft corn tortilla fluffly like a pillow. Mi Taqueria (8425 Hosmer, Tacoma) delivers.

Dinner Three

Last, but certainly not a complete list, I must have the Summer Basil Chicken salad at Indochine (1924 Pacific Ave., Tacoma). The tangy, sweet tossing of mango, pineapple, basil leaves and chicken in a peanut dressing literally makes me salivate just writing about it. To go next to it, I chose Asado’s Lomillo, or Hanger steak. A cut from part of the diaphragm that hangs between the last rib and the loin, the grainy texture is compensated by a robust meaty flavor.



I miss Acapulco, but I’m hopeful that one day my do-it-yourself dining will be replaced with real fusion — the swaying palm trees not included.

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