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I heart New York

Big city foods in the South Sound

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Big cities like New York offer the world, literally, to a foodie. In mega metropolises everything cooks, bakes and sautés at your fingertips — Cuban, African, and Persian — you name it. Global understanding through food boils daily all around a person there — a UN buffet of sorts.

In the South Sound, we hope and dream for a few nibbles of that world, or THE world — a doggie bag, a sample, anything to give our taste buds an international tasting. Sure, we may travel daily to Korea and Vietnam via our tongues right here at home thanks to a plethora of fabulous Asian restaurants, and more and more Mexico and Central America land authentically in our dining passports in East Tacoma and the Puyallup Valley.

But we still need visas to other tastes — places we experience when we hop on airplanes and travel elsewhere in the United States. In New York we find Russian soups and breads; in Miami, Cuban sandwiches; and in Detroit, Middle Eastern finger foods.

Don’t get me wrong — I thank the dining gods — slowly things continue to change here. As our world shrinks, our opportunities expand in the South Sound. For years I’ve watched through the window at other cities landing Asian noodle houses, and more specifically, ramen. We’ve had yaki soba and pho here for years, but traditional Japanese ramen remained a no-show. Then, on a chance visit to Koto, a teriyaki joint in Lakewood that I’ve neglected for years, I discovered chicken and beef ramen a la extraordinaire — the only place I KNOW offering the noodles.

It may sound trivial to those OK with Top Ramen, but this discovery marks a significant development — at least for me. True ramen — well-crafted noodles and meat steaming hot with sliced vegetables is the lunch of champions. Koto (5700 100th St.) serves a large bowl with flavorful, hearty broth piled high with noodles and fixings — the ultimate chicken noodle soup.

Our travels don’t end there, however. This fall saw the full-fledged arrival of African food in our community. It’s about time! A hearty bowl of peanut soup can change lives (or at least expand horizons). Nelshil opened at the edge of University Place and Tacoma (5510 Orchard). Operated by Shirley Amegbey of Ghana, the brief menu and sparse surrounds find themselves balanced by stunning flavors and inviting hospitality.

Start with Nelshil’s peanut soup stew with goat meat. Don’t freak about goat, it’s good. A cross in taste between lamb and pork, Amegbey’s peanut soup blew me away. I feel energized there — as if my body left the premises and spent a brief moment learning about someplace else. Maybe Africa, maybe New York, or maybe something as simple as NOT any place we’ve already had here for years.

Finally, my recent travels took me to another Tacoma locale on the edge of University Place north near Tacoma Community College. The Oriental Noodle & Grill (1620 S. Mildred) opened in late September and while it offers most of what you can find by combining pho houses with Indochine and Vien Dong, I love the fact that an Asian noodle house opened here.

The upscale interior creates nice ambiance, and the large menu features just about everything (except, of course, ramen). The only drawback comes in a tiny package — the owners, daughter. She’s three or so and cute as a button. However, she tends to walk up to tables and then stare at you while you eat — awkward. 

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