ANNOUNCER: In times of disquietude and war, the boys find themselves searching for the calm center of solace in a safe haven. That haven can come in the arms of a lover, communing with nature, or praying for peace and understanding. Haven and happiness can also be found in breaking bread with others. In the worst of times as well as the best, there are few places they’d rather break bread with the people they care most about than Acqua Via in downtown Olympia.



JAKE: From the minimalist Mediterranean décor to the actual conception and design of the restaurant itself, Jeff Taylor’s (Capital Espresso Grill, Louisa Ristorante, and Water Street Cafe and Bar) vision of Olympia as a place of creativity and where quality and vision meets excellent service is realized in his new restaurant Acqua Via — well, at least since September when it opened. Taylor’s dishes are as refined, clever, artful and just plain delicious, as I’ve encountered.



JASON: It’s so un-Olympia to have such a simple, almost optimistic place to dine. The lines are simple, the menu unorganic — sure they have “artisan” pasta (or so they call it), but the European olive medley certainly isn’t sustaining local farmers. Not that I care — I’m pleased to have at least one place of variable sophistication in our capital city.



JAKE: Tapas and other small plates are becoming almost de rigueur, now that the South Sound dining scene is catching on to the fact that less is sometimes more. And no one does the small-plate thing quite as well as Acqua Via. Taylor and crew have put a decidedly Mediterranean spin on the original Spanish concept of wine-bar snacking, offering dishes like pesto trio of mission fig, roasted pine nut and basil and piquillo pepper and grape leaf; country style pork plate with toasted pistachios and a side of organic crostini; and a spread of four seafood plates spiced up with a tour around the Mediterrean sea. These tapas are the tops.



Other small plates include several cheeses with warm baguette slices draped with olive oil (keep a napkin close) and a wonderful selection of cured meats from the famous Salumi in Seattle.



JASON: For lunch, I ordered one of those dishes that I know I will always associate with Acqua Via — the duck prosciutto — a mesmerizing blend of orange coulis, almonds, butter leaf watercress, blue cheese vinaigrette, and sweet, caramelized duck bits. You risk a cavity eating this sweet salad. It would be worth it. Not up to par, however, was the luncheon quiche. The cheese on top had that right out of the microwave hardness — yuck.



JAKE: You’re a grownup now, and it’s time to put the neon orange mac ‘n’ cheese mix behind you, not inside you. Acqua Via serves up a macaroni and cheese that’s positively dizzying Artisan macaroni and sharp white cheddar cheese — roasted tomatoes and white truffle oil — are mixed in just the right proportions so that the noodles are all melty and soft but not too wet or dry; a large bowl of this goodness is evenly covered with truffle oil and tossed with diced tomatoes and fresh basil. So very adult, so very dazzling.



JASON: I enjoyed the baked penne with lamb ragu, however, those who don’t appreciate a wild taste, steer clear. This ragu features, I assume, plenty of fatty meat and thus has a pungent after-taste. The pork chops, grilled then baked with the best roasted baby reds I have had the pleasure to eat, was slightly overcooked but still certainly enjoyable. All dinner entrees are $15 — certainly well priced.



JAKE: Acqua Via’s wine list leans toward the western Mediterranean basin, which offers myriad opportunities for inspired pairings. The two-page list ranges from Chateau de Lavernette Brut Cremant de Bourgogne NV ($28) and the 1999 Carobbio Cabernet Sauvignon Toscana “Pietraforte” ($42) to the 2004 Cave de Tain Hermitage “Au Coeur des Slecles” ($56), 99 percent of the vintages also can be ordered by the glass. The Carobbio played well with the pasta dishes.



A final note: Don’t even think about leaving Acqua Via without at least sharing an order of tiramisu. Their chocolate eclairs are quite good, but the tiramisu is heaven itself — tall, cakey and loaded with rum.

Acqua Via

Where: 500 Capitol Way S., Olympia, 360.357.6677



Hours: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served.



Scene: Minimalist Mediterranean where the windows and a mirrored wall open up the small space.



Cuisine: The Mediterranean-inspired menu includes savories such as prosciutto di parma served with sweet basil butter and rosemary diemente, and raisin walnut toast with Nutella for breakfast; panini sandwiches, salads, soups, and pasta of the day for lunch; and small plates, cheeses and $15 entrees for dinner.



Drinkies: Wine list includes 45 varieties of white, red and rose wines from the Mediterranean. Organic wines are identified by a small heart next to the selection.



Menu:

Breakfast >>> $6

Cheese sampler >>> $12

Seafood sampler >>> $15

Tuscan beef stew >>> $15

Yellow fin tuna >>> $15

Pork chops >>> $15