Seven-Oh-One

Where: 701 Pacific Ave., Tacoma, 253.272.2240
Hours: 5:30-10 p.m. Wednesday-Thursday.
5:30 p.m. to midnight Friday-Saturday
Cuisine: American comfort food
Scene: Casual and sophisticated bistro
Drinkies: Full bar, teas, coffee, sodas
Damage:  $1.50-$20.99

ANNOUNCER: A quick call was made to Meconi’s earlier this month.

“Hello, Meconi’s? What’s the name of the restaurant next to you?”

“No, not Matador. The new one right next to you, by the park.”

“No, it’s not Capers anymore and yes, I’m serious.” There was a pause and silence. “Oh, you didn’t notice anything had changed? OK, thank you.”

And that sums up the visual impact of the sale of Capers and subsequent birth of Seven-Oh-One. This new bistro has slipped hermit crab-like into the space at 701 Pacific Ave. in downtown Tacoma. Owner Patti Iseman is new to Tacoma’s dicey sustenance game having formerly owned a very casual dining spot in Gig Harbor, the Hy-Iu-Hee-Hee. A bistro in Tacoma is a different animal entirely. Hopes are high.

JAKE: We are not going to dredge past memories of evening dining blunders a la Capers. We are focusing on the new format, which is to say, the old format, but somewhat revamped. Seven-Oh-One looks the same as Capers. Same warm yellow walls, same Norwegian looking chairs, same sparse art. The menu even looks about the same.

JASON: That’s because it basically is, dummy. The dishes are refreshingly simple, modern in style yet follow a traditional formula of meat, vegetable and starch. Nothing is heavily sauced or spiced, natural flavors standout. Much is made in-house: soups, dressings, oil blends, desserts, ice cream and more. Creamy potato leek soup was mildly salty, which I love, and the butternut squash soup was savory and spicy; red pepper chutney floated on top. I dunked chunks of warm buttered bread in it.

JAKE: Pecan-encrusted chicken skewers are very popular here. Finely chopped nuts and light panko breaded the amazingly moist and flavorful chicken. Unless you hate pecans or chicken or sunshine and puppies, you will like this dish. Tart honey mustard was served with the five skewers.

JASON: I got off on the prosciutto wrapped shrimp. The citrus onion marmalade that was supposed to be the accompaniment was actually two- to three-inch long strips of sugary, tart red onion served in a ramekin; not jelly- or jam-like. I ate it with a fork. Thankfully, the shrimp did not require dipping. Brushetta was exactly as I expected — toasted sliced baguette topped with chopped dark red Roma tomato, garlic and vibrant basil mixed lightly with olive oil. The balsamic vinaigrette was wonderfully sharp. Sublime citrus vinaigrette dressed my wild mixed green salad topped with cucumber pieces and more tomato.

JAKE: Discovering I love Jamaican food while on trips to East Brooklyn, I was tickled to see coconut rice listed. Served with Island pork tenderloin, sadly the rice was gummy and the flavor not right for me. I’m sure I’m missing some spices, but the pork tasted like it was dusted in cumin, cinnamon, chili powder, black pepper, and brown sugar. It was stellar. The rack of lamb, though very tender and juicy, seemed to have too much stone ground mustard marinade. The asparagus served with both entrees was fresh and al dente. Poached wild Alaskan salmon fillet fell apart at fork’s touch. The linguine it rode in on was also al dente. I love a good lemony, caper, garlic and white wine sauce. So light and still packs a punch to the sensory receptors.

JASON: The wine list is nothing to freak out over and is made up of familiar easily approachable and reasonably priced wines — Sagelands, Trincherno, Maryhill, Avery Lane, Beringer, Red Truck, Pepperwood Grove. I was happy to see Cline viognier on the list. I’ll be back to sample it on Wine Wednesday when all bottles are only $8.

JAKE: Eh-hem. Can you even pronounce viognier? Only two other tables were dining on each of our visits. Owner Iseman does have an aggressive campaign going to entice people in though. Hard to beat that wine night you mentioned and Half-Off Thursdays — meaning half off everything — from Swedish meatballs, sirloin and duck to cocktails, wine, beer and even martinis.

JASON: I ordered the apple crisp with unusual ginger ice cream. It arrived hot in its own baking dish, packed full of tender apple slices, covered by a sugary layer and some damn fine homemade ice cream melting on top. You have to really like ginger not to be overwhelmed by how potent it was.

JAKE: My baked brownie sundae was exceptional and topped with mint ice cream. Chocolate and mint are always a sure thing.