ANNOUNCER: One of the blessings the boys have discovered living in the South Sound is the proximity to Asia and the number of great chefs that have located here to make us sushi. Sure, someone in St. Paul or Green Bay may have opened a stellar sushi shop, but I suspect they don’t have the vast numbers that the little ole South Sound seems to enjoy. From Federal Way to Olympia, there are some worthy sushi chefs preparing a plethora of quality selections. One the boys often visit exists in Lacey where Martin meets Marvin — the Sushi Boat.

JASON: OK, I admit, part of the reason I like this place is because tiny little wooden boats travel along a circular moat separating the sushi chefs and the counter seats. On the flat bed of each boat are plates of sushi creations diners may grab up and pop into their mouths. Who doesn’t like tiny little boats? 

JAKE: Fat captains, my guess.

The South Sound continues to receive these sushi joints — most of them using conveyor belts. The boats are a nice twist, and I believe the Sushi Boat actually was here before the newer ones in Tacoma. I’ve been dining here at least three years.

JASON: The restaurant sits in a strip mall near the old Mega Foods. The parking lot is behind the Washington Mutual next to the Blockbuster Video. It’s a medium sized restaurant with rows of booth seating separated by the boating area dividing the room. Two sushi chefs work their creations inside the middle while boats travel in a circle continuously. The overall ambiance is a little drab — they always have boxes of stuff lined up near the door, although so does Sushi Bento in University Place. The service is friendly and folksy, but sometimes can be a little slow. Though if you sit at the counter, all the sushi you want is right at your fingertips.

JAKE: The sushi menu is extensive with lots of single choices as well as specialty rolls with clever names. I loved the Volcano (obviously) a tempura fish popping out of rolled rice — simple, sweet and tasty. The sushi doesn’t set a new bar, so don’t get me wrong — it’s standard, but in this area, that’s a mouth full. 

JASON: Beyond sushi, they prepare some excellent Japanese cuisine. The teriyaki short ribs are my favorite. The bowl of meat arrives hot but not scalding to the hands. Many places heat the bone so fiery it’s nearly impossible to eat. The bones are warm but simple to pick up. 

JAKE: I start with the tempura — a large basket of sweet potato, onion, shrimp, and broccoli — all deep-fried in a light tempura batter. It’s a little greasy, but not heavy. After that, the meals come with both miso soup (basic) and a choice of cabbage or regular salad — both with nice Japanese-type dressings (heavy on the ginger). Then I order a couple of sushi selections and tuck them into the teriyaki chicken. No wonder I’m fat.

JASON: No tiny boats for you.

On Thursday nights, it’s all you can eat sushi for those sitting at the boat bar. This is the best time to bring sushi novices because they have the chance to try a variety of specialties without feeling nickeled and dimed. Order a teriyaki meal in case they aren’t converted, but make them at least try a few different types so they can fully experience the genre of cuisine. 

The Sushi Boat

8205 Martin Way E., Lacey, 360.459.3563

Hours: 11-9:30 p.m., Monday-Saturday

Décor: Nothing imaginative except of course for the super cool tugboat track carrying sushi in the middle of the room.

Cuisine: Japanese featuring a large sushi selection — firm, fresh and sweet.

Drinkies: Basic selection of Japanese beers and saki, as well as a few domestic brands, pop and tea.

Menu:

Tempura >>> $8.95

Chicken Teriyaki (full meal) >>> $13.95

Short Ribs >>> $13.95