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Scary places to eat

Frightenly good food

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ANNOUNCER: All in all, the term hole-in-the-wall has a fairly decent reputation — meaning plenty of people are willing to look past the, shall we say, limited décor and sample the food. I’d venture to say that most people know of one less desirable place that might turn their stomachs if they studied the floors and walls too closely that still tastes so good they keep going back to dine. In a sense, the filth is part of the charm. All holes-in-the-wall, however, are not created equal and some places just look too scary to take the risk. And that’s where the boys come in this Halloween week. They don’t have a choice — they must throw caution to the wind, and sometimes good sense, and give the less desirable places a taste test. In doing so, they’ve compiled a few suggestions on scary places that won’t haunt you later (if you know what I mean).

JASON: If in doubt, all diners can start online at the Pierce County Health Department’s Web site where they post their inspections of restaurants in the area. There you can see for yourself what these professional snoopers discovered lurking in the kitchens of not only the scary places, but the posh as well. The online database www.decadeonline.com/main.phtml?agency=tac, searchable by the name of every food establishment in the county and the results of those eateries’ health inspection reports are public record. It’s fascinating reading.

JAKE: I bet one or two restaurant owners on our list call our editor mad when we called their place “scary.”

JASON: Yes, but little did they know our editor is on vacation and Bobble Tiki is editor this week.

JAKE: Uncle Thurms Finger Lickin’ Ribs & Chicken (3709 S. G St., Tacoma) makes our list, not because the store is so scary (though it’s no two-star) but due to its location inside the dilapidated Lincoln District. Get past that and you might be OK lickin’ your fingers (but don’t). Uncle Thurms is slim on décor and bursting with flavor and hospitality. The staff is the definition of Southern hospitality. Even when you just stop by for some takeout, they’ll offer you water while you wait and ask how many kids you have.

JASON: Two smoky barbeque pork ribs that could pass as lunch by themselves and not a small part of a dinner platter lay among six fried chicken wings that dripped juice down my hand. Evenly seasoned Cajun catfish strips, flour-battered and pan-fried perfectly. The three flour and Cajun season-battered catfish strips were mildly muddy tasting, as catfish tends to be, but a little hot sauce rounded out the flavor and perked things up.

JAKE: Heading south, QB (213 4th Ave in Olympia) looks like a seedy city bar on the outside. The food features whole ingredients — not organic but simple, close to the earth cuisine with little in between — sort of like the décor. You get a door to enter, a seat, some flatware, and that’s about it. But don’t be scared — what the place lacks in aesthetics, it delivers in taste.

JASON: Bar none, the best item on the menu is QB’s Steve’s deep-fried Cadillac burrito — a mama with chicken, tofu or grilled vegetables, beans, rice, avocado, cheese, sour cream and pico. This bad boy tastes great the next day cold too. Not fried like a chimichanga, but rather flaky and firm, for those who love a thick tortilla and strong pico freshness, this is your burrito.

JAKE: Finally, look past what you know about Ponder’s Corner in Lakewood and brave El Pulgarcito (12134 Pacific Hwy). Serving El Salvadorian cuisine, they’ve passed their health inspections with flying colors. This joint oozes unpretentiousness with killer food such as a whole fried Tilapia and authentic Salvadorian pupusas. Excellent cuisine but shabby surroundings — but never in a bad way.

JASON: Boo.

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