ANNOUNCER: Fine dining in Puyallup — not exactly the words that easily land on the lips. And, maybe DeCaterina’s Market Grill and Bar shouldn’t be classified that anyway — it’s trendy, bistro-ish, open and airy, certainly not stuffy or pretentious. Regardless, either way you slice it, Puyallup hasn’t seen too many of these.

JASON: Finally a reason to drop Puyallup into the dining review section. Littered with fast food joints, teriyaki huts and the like, Puyallup needs more adventurous restaurants to go with its expanding and shiny downtown. 

JAKE: Puyallup is making excellent strides to be a livable downtown with an impressive city park surrounded by condos — a bistro certainly accentuates the growing scene. I love the architecture of DeCaterina’s — it’s an offshoot of the convention space next door but sits in a tight circle flanked by a funky bar and streetside outdoor seating on one side and courtyard-type seating on the other side. Inside, the colors are Tuscan with deep reds and yellows, solid black chairs and crisp white tablecloths. Nice show!

JASON: On weekend evenings a trio plays with guitar and bongos, a harmonica at times. The sound is soft and not overpowering — a wonderful accompaniment to the meal. I’m hanging here during winter. I can envision it warm and inviting.

JAKE: A sunny day called for lunch on the patio checking out the cars on Meridian. I was the only one sitting there, so I felt a bit conspicuous as passersby stared. A baked potato soup saved me. Warm, savory and creamy — I adored the pork fat and chunks of potato. I’m going back for that one. I paired it with the chicken and avocado sandwich — generous slices of warm chicken and fresh avocado on a chewy ciabatta with tomatoes, spinach and decadent blue cheese sauce. It would have been perfect with heirloom tomatoes.

JASON: DeCaterina’s own salads. They hand select crisp greens and pair them with mild dressings allowing the flavors to combine and grow. The Caesar had a lemon base, and the Caprese insalada balanced basil and balsamic. 

JAKE: For dinner, I started with the antipasti — it’s huge with a decent selection of meats and cheeses. The olive tapenda and salsa rossa provided accompaniment without having to carry the show. I wouldn’t write home to mama about it, but still, for a starter, not bad.

JASON: I liked the Bloody Mary Prawns appetizer. Six, plump, fresher than fresh prawns swam in a thick tomato sauce with a mild kick of horseradish and vodka. The grilled steak brochettes, however, didn’t impress. Don’t forget to dip in the sauces, especially the sweet Thai sauce. Skip the meat on a stick — too thin and barely registered in my stomach. I wanted more for mostly the wrong reason.

JAKE: The wild Alaskan salmon on risotto arrived mostly with the right hints of smoke and savory. It’s nice to find a place that knows how to cook a Northwest favorite.

JASON: And yet, my salmon arrived dry. I asked for medium rare but received medium well. I could tell the salmon had the right flavor and consistency, but my piece should have stayed in the kitchen. They do know fish, though. My moist and firm halibut burst with flavor, and that was before the sweet, mango sauce. Served in a banana leaf — it’s worth every bite.

JAKE: My seared scallops wrapped in bacon over crab ravioli tasted outstanding. The scallops arrived fresh and tender, and the large ravioli came stuffed with sweet crabmeat. The raviolis are a satisfying meal alone.

 

JASON: The desserts — raspberry chocolate torte with vanilla whipped cream and a cheesecake with caramel — are there if you need them.

DeCaterina’s Market Grill and Bar

Where: 328 S. Meridian, Puyallup, 253.848.1553

Hours: Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Cuisine: Italian bistro with excellent seafood selection

Scene: Warm, Tuscan colors 

with crisp linens, brick and lots of natural light

Drinkies: Full bar with generous pours, and a worthy wine list

MENU

• Gnocchi Marsala >> $10 ($18


•  for dinner)


• Manilla Clams >> $10


• Stuffed Chicken Breast >> $18


• Rack of Lamb >> $30