ANNOUNCER: A tagline used to run under the boys’ column that pointed out that all meals for their reviews are paid by the Weekly Volcano and that each week the boys slip the receipts under the publisher’s door and run. The boys certainly enjoy their share of inexpensive dive and holes-in-the-wall joints, however, when they can stop in several times to try places offering higher class meals — they’re all for it. Maxwell’s Speakeasy + Lounge provided them the opportunity to ring up a few healthy tabs — enough so they’ve been ordered to wash the publishers’ cars the rest of the summer to make up for it. Not that Maxwell’s is any more expensive than other top-notch restaurants in Tacoma, it’s just that the boys couldn’t stop going back (as they tried to sell it) to make sure they had the story right. I’m sure that will come up at their early (forced) retirement party.

JASON: The price doesn’t mean the place will be good, but in the case of Maxwell’s Speakeasy, our boss received his money’s worth.

JAKE: Yeah, though he’s pissed we didn’t bring him home a doggie bag.

JASON: This spot dazzles the second upon entering. With classy golden brown and geometric details, smart furnishings and hip fixtures, it’s one more restaurant making Tacoma a big city town.

JAKE: The big windows of the historic Walker Building remind me of bistro eating in Portland. A bookend on St. Helens with Doyle’s Public House on the other end, this part of town will soon rival Sixth Avenue’s dining appeal. Maxwell’s offers the right size with an intimate bar, open kitchen and two levels of seating with both tables and booths.

JAKE: The menu has changed a bit since opening (understandable) and I have had only one misfire over the course of meals, which I’d rather get out of the way. Maxwell’s cioppino tasted like mud. I thought it might be a bad night, but I noticed on Chef Gordon Naccarato’s blog, he also said the cioppino was lacking. They need to nix it. But, again, every other dish I’ve ordered I loved.

JASON: The white wine battered onion rings rocked my world. This plate of fried pleasure arrives with roasted garlic tarter and a spicy, sweet ketchup and literally must have been made in heaven. Not too greasy, not too soft, not too hard and not too messy, they are perfect. I also enjoyed the French onion soup with aged sherry, garlic crostini and cave aged Gruyere — light on the salt but heavy on the earthy onion flavor.

JAKE: Quite possibly the halibut is the best I’ve tasted. Pan seared and served on a bed of the sweetest heirloom tomatoes I’ve had in a long time, keeping it all moist is balsamic, olive oil, feta cheese and brown butter pan sauce. Harmonious, filling with the sweet tastes of the sea meeting the tomatoes — I can’t remember a better meal lately.

JASON: Wow — get a room, brother. The apple wood smoked pulled pork sandwich almost brought me to tears — in a good way. The pork shoulder, slowly roasted, is stewed in a balsamic barbecue sauce and served on chewy grilled ciabatta. The sweet smoky flavor of tender pork and quality bread make for a fantastic meal. I also can’t recommend enough the side of grilled asparagus on the menu — simple in an herbed olive oil with sea salat, it arrived perfectly crisp with a little char to make things interesting.

JAKE: The desserts didn’t interest me. But one thing is for certain, I am going back.

Maxwell’s Speakeasy + Lounge

Where: 454 St. Helens, Tacoma, 253.683.4115.
Hours: Monday-Thursday 4-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 4 p.m. to midnight; Sunday 5-9 p.m.
Cuisine: Fish, chops  and steaks mostly with emphasis on clean flavors.
Scene: Hip,  cool, richly decorated Drinkies: Full bar with professional bartenders and a specialty cocktail list aiming to bring back old traditional cocktails with new twists. Worthy wine list.

MENU

Steamed Manila calms >> $12
Chilled Dungeness crab salad >> $12
Kobe beef tri tip >> $22
Grilled King salmon >> $24