ANNOUNCER: Unless you are new to the Northwest, likely you’ve seen or dined at an Anthony’s Homeport Restaurant. Always with stunning views, Anthony’s sports three South Sound locations — Olympia, Gig Harbor and Tacoma. The boys gave Anthony’s high marks in the past, and subsequent visits (just for fun) keep the mostly steaks, chops and seafood joints in good standing. The quality doesn’t set surf-turf records; however, pound for pound the service, food and setting merit a solid B+. Two years ago the chain opened Hearthfire in the spot where the Seattle World’s Fair landmark Genoa’s By The Bay stood for years serving grandfatherly meals like trout almandine to the early bird set. Genoas burned to the ground several years ago, but rising in its place (after a few set-backs), Anthony’s Hearthfire Grill offers the best restaurant view in Olympia and like its brothers and sisters, solid above average fare.



JASON: Mr. Announcer Man stole our thunder. I love the set up — possibly the best designed waterfront building in the South Sound. The interior woods and iron glow gloriously through the floor-to-ceiling windows that rise two stories and overlook the opening to Olympia’s port. The open kitchen, the bar, the raised tables — they make every seat a winner and provide a front row view of diving bald eagles and herons savaging the waters.



JAKE: Hearthfire on a Northwest sunny day with it’s large outside deck and beautiful interior views makes for a romantic setting. On a cloudy day, a bit too typical in this area, the stage is a wall of grey. I suppose it depends on the mood, but what makes the place attractive could also depress those who don’t want to look at miles and miles of dreariness.



JASON: Good point — I tend to enjoy a grey day in the winter. With Hearthfire’s roaring fire, it’s cozy and snug. But, yes, in the summer, I’d probably rather eat somewhere with fewer windows on a drippy day.



JAKE: Rain or shine, the food manages to make my stomach sunny. On the appetizer menu, the tempura Portobello mushroom — crisp, panko crusted and sliced tasted wonderfully woody and moist. I paired the mushroom with the seared beef tenderloin strips glazed in soy-lime with garlic and red onion and fell in love — my favorite of all. The tenderloin arrived tender with a nice sweet sauce.



JASON: I tried lunch on my first visit and enjoyed the salmon pot pie. Savory, the wild salmon tasted mild and paired well with peas and potatoes. The puffs of pastry on top tasted homemade (though I’m not sure), and the entire dish was more than I could eat. My lunch guest, a cobb salad expert, rated Hearthfire’s cobb the best she’s tasted — and that’s saying something.



JAKE: My only disappointment, and certainly not typical of an Anthony’s, was the salmon. I went with the current fad and ordered a sirloin and Copper River plate. The steak tasted fine, but the salmon was overcooked. That’s heresy in the Northwest, and to dry out an exceptional variety of the fish like Copper River, equally horrific.



JASON: I did a combo plate as well — the ribs and honey chili prawn skewer. The ribs were tasty — thick, meaty with a dry rub and slow roasted. The honey-chili prawns, however, tasted slightly overcooked as well — a bit tough.



JAKE: Equally disappointing were the desserts. They tasted manufactured — little care, I expect, was put into the bread pudding and berry crisp I tasted.



JASON: Skip the desserts and sip the Hearthfire’s signature rhubarb margarita instead.

Anthony’s Hearthfire Grill

1675 Marine Dr. N.E., Olympia, 360.705.3473

Hours: Mon-Thurs, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Fri & Sat, 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., Sunday Brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Dinner 3:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.



Scene: Gorgeous views of the Puget Sound out of floor-to-ceiling windows with light NW wood accents and great vantage points from every seat.



Cuisine: Northwest favorites such as steaks, crab, prawns and salmon with rotisserie chicken and ribs plus ahi and a Kobe beef burger.



Drinkies: Full bar with drink promotions such as the current rhubarb cocktails. Decent wine list with a few by the glass.



Menu

Crispy Calamari $6.95

Snake River Farms American Kobe Beef Burger >> $12

Ribs and Honey Chili Prawn Skewer >> $19

Sirloin Steak and Copper River Salmon >> $26