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Little Jerry's

Big plates that honor a big TV sitcom

The Kramerica features breakfast goodness swimming in hollandaise sauce. Photo credit: Jackie Fender

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ANNOUNCER: Dutch and Jackie needed a hearty meal with a side of weird, which took them to Fern Hill's Little Jerry's Restaurant. Opened for only breakfast and lunch, this sitcom-themed diner serves up greasy spoon dishes and lures the masses into their intimate dining space.

JACKIE: If you blink you'll miss it, even after the expansion. But like they say, size doesn't matter. Little Jerry's is hole-in-the-wall dining at it's very finest. Not a diehard fan myself, I can appreciate the dedication to the Seinfeld theme. The wall décor is steeped in sitcom kitsch and the menu reflects beloved characters and quotes you'll recognize from the course of the nine-season run.

DUTCH: Don't be fooled by their size, however, I went on a Sunday afternoon and they had gone through 500 eggs by the time I arrived. And the dishes here mirror the amount they do, which is to say they are huge. The Ribbon Bully serves as an example as it piles biscuits or English muffins, bacon, sausage, two eggs any style, and a slice of ham that must be an inch thick, all covered in breakfast gravy. Even my teenage son wasn't able to finish it all.

JACKIE: Typically, I like to try a plethora of the offerings on a menu, but when it comes to Little Jerry's, there is one dish I keep coming back to again and again: The Kramerica. Let's say first, the portion sizes won't leave you hungry. The Kramerica, named for everyone's favorite wild and crazy-haired neighbor's fake corporation, is piled high with goodies. Crisp hash browns lie the base for your choice of English muffin or biscuit, ample meaty sliced tomato, fresh spinach, two eggs your way and bacon all smothered in hollandaise sauce. It's rich, hearty and has enough veggies to make you not feel like a complete glutton. I mean, they count even if they're swimming in hollandaise right? The only thing that could improve this dish is a better cup of coffee, in my opinion.

DUTCH: Don't overlook the breakfast sandwiches here. I gave The Mimbo a shot despite the list of ingredients I was certain would leave me full for a week. This starts out like any other breakfast sandwich with bacon, sausage and eggs, except for that it is sandwiched between two grilled cheese sandwiches. So, yes, that is four pieces of bread with cheese already pre-grilled before being filled into a whole lotta hand-held breakfast deliciousness. Add some mayo and fresh tomatoes for good measure.

JACKIE: You can see the kitchen from the "main" dining room (as you enter, it's the area before the expansion), and what's really impressive is the amount of volume they do from such an itty-bitty space. Also, something I really appreciate is the family-owned vibe I get. Little Jerry's has a solid pool of regulars, and like another sitcom favorite, it seems like, everybody knows your name.

DUTCH: Don't forget about lunch at this Fern Hill delight. The lunch here is as big as the breakfast, including The Mandelbaum burger that boasts three patties and a half-pound of bacon. A testament to both their love of Seinfeld and large tasty amounts of food.

LITTLE JERRY'S, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., Tuesday-Saturday; 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., Sunday; closed Monday, 8233 South Park, Tacoma, 253.474.2435

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