I didn't have to go back there. I never wanted to. There's never been a reason until now, so I did. For you I make this sacrifice.  

As I have said before, most visit a grocery store because of its proximity to home or work. I am no different. Back when I owned Vin Grotto there were many times when I headed out my front door toward downtown, there would be an irritating phone call from my kitchen manager, "We're out of something. Can you go to the store on your way in?"

This call meant one thing and one thing only: a visit to the Un-Safeway. Many of you know what I am talking about (you call it the Not-So-Safeway), but for those of you who never cross the sacred boundary of your 98407 zip code, it's the Safeway on Hilltop.

Unfortunately, this Safeway has a horrible reputation, but really it's a victim of circumstance that is both justified and unjustified. Because of this stores proximity, the customer demographic has typically been lower income, but this changing. Hilltop's affordable housing is luring young homebuyers with higher incomes into the area.

This fact has been clearly presented to corporate Safeway, but this store will continue indefinitely to be the only one in the Tacoma-Pierce County area not scheduled for a remodel, and if any store deserves a makeover, this is the store.

As I mentioned earlier, I've had no need lately to shop at Un-Safeway, but for research purposes I would bite the bullet. As I walked through the only working entrance (they claim the other entrance is broken and it has been for at least three years, so I'm guessing it's more of a safety issue, but they can't say that), a familiar and slightly unpleasant odor hit me. What IS that? You get used to it.

This Safeway follows the corporate line with sales and promotions, but also does an excellent job of catering to the neighborhood. Because of the diverse population of the Hilltop, there have expanded ethnic food sections that are not over the top but competent. Wine section is a little sad, but I wouldn't expect too many shoppers want Cougar Crest.

I did find my favorite little French treat, Lu Tea digestive crackers for $2.99, lots of pre-packaged ground Starbucks coffee, frozen puffed pastry sheets and San Pellegrino which are always a good signs and a killer deal on eggs, five dozen for $7.69! Breakfast party!

If you like cooked greens or you just need some good decorative garnish, Un-Safeway has the most beautiful collard, mustard and turnip greens. I would make a special trip to this store to buy these whenever I had a large party and I needed platter garnishes. Also, it's not so easy to find really good dark rye when you want a tasty Rueben sandwich, but this Safeway has it.

Speaking of greens and bread, the produce section looks very fresh and clean, but sadly this store doesn't have a bakery. It does have a pharmacy and the checkers are super friendly. Everything else is pretty standard and classic for a Safeway.

I'm not sure if you would ever need to go out of your way to shop here, but if you need something in a pinch and you're headed downtown, don't be afraid to stop.  It's a little bit of an adventure, and if you have read my previous columns, you know that's what I like.

[Hilltop Safeway, 1112 S. M, Tacoma, 253.627.8840]