Il Trattoria di Merende

Where: 813 Pacific Ave., Tacoma, 253.722.1993
Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Dinner Tuesday-Saturday 4-11 p.m., Sunday-Monday 4-10 p.m.
Cuisine: Italian rustic cuisine featuring small-bites menu, flatbreads and full dinners
Scene: Sleek decor with straw and terracotta colors, brick down the north side, blue under-lit bar and modern lighting.
Drinkies: Full bar with true gems among the 15 whites, 19 reds and 11 limited wines.

ANNOUNCER: Few things in life that are worth waiting for. Your name to be called at graduation, your child to be born, Axle Rose’s Chinese Democracy, and a restaurant with a star chef to open right here in Tacoma. Il Trattoria di Merende is just such a place. Months and months past the projected opening date, the boys were still concocting reasons to drive into downtown and cruise Pacific Avenue to South Eighth Street. With noses pressed to glass, they peered inside and filled their heads with made-up recipes Chef Jeff Bishop might use to create succulent dishes. Finally, the time arrived; the door opened; people poured in.

Merende is comfortable and simple without being dull. Unassuming and classy, that’s what it is. Take your mom, take a date, take your whole family — It all works. The menu is set up for sharing. A plethora of small plates makes it easy to order a quartet and play pass the plate. For people who didn’t learn to share in kindergarten, there are full entrees as well.

JASON: I live at Merende now. It’s my home, and no one can make me leave. I sleep under the large banquet table behind the wine wall with one eye open to make sure the restaurant doesn’t cease to be. I’m never leaving.

JAKE: You leave all the time, weirdo. Stop trying to freak people out. We get it.

JASON: Fine. Merende’s signature item is Chef Bishop’s mushroom risotto. It’s tops and might be the most perfect risotto I have ever consumed. Evenly cooked, perfect ratio of juicy fragrant mushrooms to soft carnaroli rice and herbs topped with a dollop of tangy, gooey goat cheese. I overheard a table nearby discussing how they’d driven from Gig Harbor for it now that Chef Bishop’s fine eats can be had only in Tacoma. Another appetizer that’s hot, literally, is the calamari calabrese. It packs a bit more punch than Italian calamari usually does. Tentacles, rings and all were expertly sautéed in a thin tomato, onion, herb, hot pepper, and oregano broth. Thanks to the waiter for this wonderful recommendation.

JAKE: Yes, service was polite and informative with great suggestions regarding the wine list without using a hard sell. Chef Bishop’s abilities speak for themselves, typically. One item did give pause, though. Rock shrimp mashed potatoes served with the swordfish special of the night were perplexingly watery. The texture made me inclined to believe that the potatoes had been overcooked before being mashed. The rock shrimp were done perfectly though, just the right firmness and flavor. Not a bad trade-off, I suppose. The swordfish was moist and firm as well. I especially enjoyed the tiny halved grape tomatoes, ultra thinly sliced raw onion, and capers that were laid liberally across the fish. The variance in texture was terrific.

JASON: Roar. When my entrée hit the table I felt like pounding my chest. The braised lamb shank was awesomely gargantuan. May I say gargantuan? That word feels like it should be in the swear word family. Served center plate to pureed, spiced sweet potatoes and sautéed greens, the shank was as big around as my fist; bone included, it was half a foot long. This is a meaty man meal. Thick hunks of moist lamb meat clung loosely to the bone under a pillowy layer of succulent, fatty skin.

JAKE: I know you didn’t cut the fat off. That’s the best part — where the flavor and richness are. All these fools on diets ordering supremely prepared dishes (and paying for it) and they start hacking it apart according to what is personal trainer-approved. Bahhh! Do some cardio and eat the fat. There’s your balance.

ANNOUNCER: Are you done, Jake? Can we get back to, you know, the review?

JAKE: My bad. Before we move into the land of sweets, I want to point out that the produce is amazingly fresh. Usually I’m a purist when it comes to crème brûlée, but accented with huckleberries is now on my approved list. Bravo, Merende.

JASON: An old-school fav and dessert special of the night, the butterscotch pudding was rich and set up well. Topped with a smattering of golden raisins and candied walnuts, it was served with what I believe was caraway biscotti. Yes, it sounds awful, but the combination of sweet and savory was magic. An espresso would have buttoned the meal up beautifully, but Merende’s grinder hadn’t arrived yet.

MENU

Mushroom risotto >> $6
Sautéed calamari calabrese >> $8
Flatbreads >> $10-$14
Braised lamb shank >> $24
Beef short ribs >>$26