ANNOUNCER: The areas in and around Nisqually are not historically known for their cuisine. For years, Tiny’s Drive In pretty much exemplified the area, drawing in hamburger and foot-long hot dog fans moving north and south on Interstate 5. There have been taverns serving greasy chicken and jo jos in the valley as well, but aside from all of that, Nisqually remained a dining dead zone.



Then more people moved into subdivisions at the top of the hill leading into Lacey, and a few things changed. A Little Bit of Europe opened shop at the corner of Martin Way and Dutterow S.E. (just at the border between Nisqually and Lacey), proving, although not ultimately successful, that a restaurant can at least draw some customers through the door. Then, across the street, Cebu brought stellar Filipino food to the area, proving if the food is exceptional you can stay in business — even if you can see the Nisqually Valley from your parking lot. Now Mangano’s is giving it a try — opening in the Little Bit of Europe space with a lunch and dinner menu of classic Italian cuisine.

 

JASON: Immediately, the décor needs a boost. I know it’s the Nisqually/Lacey area, but there’s no reason to create an atmosphere that isn’t cozy. The twinkling lights are nice, but the space is large, and the scattering of tables and limited wall décor coupled with the large windows give the place a sterile and cold feel. Italian cuisine needs comfortable, even crowded like a plus-sized family. It needs activity and people talking with their hands within inches of each other. This place feels incomplete.

JAKE: I promised myself I’d avoid saying it’s good by Nisqually standards, but I do feel that way. Mangano’s makes excellent cuisine — in the two- and three-star category. Primo Grill it is not. Il Fiasco it is not.  But for the casual diner who appreciates quality ingredients and well-blended flavors — it’s a home run.

JASON: I loved the spaghetti with clam sauce. The noodles are al dente — firm and sturdy but refreshingly flavorful. The serving portion exceeds the average appetite, and the clam sauce is savory and mild. The clams needed a little washing. I encountered a few stretches of sand, but other than that — delicious.

JAKE: I started with the bruschetta — a chewy crostini with generous and fresh toppings that included chopped Roma tomato, garlic, and basil drizzled with olive oil. They arrived five to a plate and put my taste buds in a good place. Next I delved into the veal saltimbocca — three small pounded cutlets topped with prosciutto and sage in a Marsala butter sauce. I liked the dish — certainly flavorful, hearty and filling. The accompanying cheese ravioli, however, was too soft for my liking — limp and a bit watery.

JASON: For lunch, I returned for the eggplant parmigiana sub and discovered a new favorite. The eggplant, the most misunderstood of the nightshade plants, tasted firm and fresh — a woody flavor that blends curiously but delightfully with creamy cheese. The sauce complemented the entire production.

JAKE: I spent lunch with a classic — a large plate of spaghetti and meatballs. I enjoyed the Marsala sauce — sweet, low on acid and robust. The meatballs are medium size with a fine meaty base and enough Italian spice to remind you where you are. I too found the noodles to have a fresh, homemade flavor.

JASON: Yes, Mangano’s is good by Nisqually (it’s on the border) standards, but it isn’t bad by Lacey, Lakewood and Tumwater standards either. We are so going to get letters for this.

Mangano’s Ristorante

9323 Martin Way, Lacey, 360.456.2212

Hours: Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and 5-9 p.m.; Saturday, 5-9 p.m.

Scene: Open and drafty, needs a makeover to create a cozy and crowded ambience.

Cuisine: B average — nice attention to quality ingredients, plus a few menu items not typical for the area.

Drinkies: Beer and wine.

Menu:

Sausage & Peppers Sub >> $7.95

Lunch Lasagna >> $8.95

Ziti with Broccoli >> $11.95

Steak Al Pep Verde >> $18.95