ANNOUNCER: There is nothing that stands out about Maresol on Bridgeport Way in Lakewood other than next door sits a teriyaki joint with the brightest yellow awning in the county — you can’t miss that. Otherwise, Maresol and the Filipino food that exists inside is relatively incognito except for those in the know who pack the joint during the lunch hours. Part grocery store and part buffet with little attention to décor, Maresol impressed the boys.

 

JASON: I’m not calling the place a dump, but certainly Maresol could use a little sprucing up. Move some of the boxes, warm up the interior, and add some lighting that doesn’t reminisce of a bus station bathroom and the place improves — if they care, that is — which they probably don’t. After all, I’ve struggled to find a table on most visits so the lackluster apparently does little to keep diners away from the place and thus probably doesn’t warrant the extra expense.

JAKE: I found this hole-in-the-wall charming. The TV broadcasting from the Philippines, the Formica tables shoved close and the stoic guy behind the bubbling buffet — I think the place excels for those reasons.

JASON: Yeah, why doesn’t that guy smile? I always get this feeling he wants me to order quickly and then get the hell out of the way — like the Soup Nazi. And can your believe the crowds? I’ve driven by the place hundreds of times — I had no idea large crowds existed inside. I feel like I’ve been missing the boat.

JAKE: Missing the taste boat, that is. The food is exceptional. Filipino food blends the flavors of China, and Asia as a whole, with major influences from Spain and Mexico (during colonization) resulting in ample meat stews with root vegetables over rice. Maresol certainly follows suit offering a buffet of eight choices plus sometimes lumpia or fried, whole tilapia – or both. They ask that you shout out your selection by number, then they scoop the ingredients over rice or in a bowl, and finally shuffle you to the right to pay. Order quickly and efficiently. There’s not much room for the line.

JASON: There’s also not much explanation of what’s on the buffet line — and as stated, there’s a general feeling that you don’t ask the guy behind the glass. I have sampled most items and found delicious consistency. Order with abandon — you won’t be disappointed.

JAKE: You can, however, expect a couple pungent smells. The vegetable dish — squash, mushrooms, beans and a couple mystery foods — emits a disagreeable smell. That said, it’s tasty — mild, fresh and woody. However, the aroma will discourage me from ordering it again. The other dishes — the beef, pork and chicken stews — were exceptional without an unpleasant odor.

JASON: The stews rotate a bit and on my last visit I encountered the curry chicken. I loved it. The yellow broth was mild and sweet with nice chunks of dark chicken on the bone and slices of green pepper and carrot. The Pansit, or stir fried noodles with chicken was also excellent — filling and fresh. I recommend the lumpia as well.

Maresol Restaurant

10505 Bridgeport Way S.W., Lakewood, 253.581.7248

Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., closed the last Sunday of each month.

Scene: Martha Stewart would have a coronary, but the hole-in-the-wall appeal works well and never distracts from what is important — the food.

Cuisine: Traditional Filipino with major emphasis on meat stews.

Drinkies: A small case of sodas and juice drinks from the Philippines.

Menu

Pansit & rice >> $3.69

Vegetable & rice >> $3.99

Meat and rice >> $4.99

Tilipia >> $5.99