ANNOUNCER: What do you get when you cross a Cliff House chef with a Sea Grill front man? Woody’s on the Water. In the old Blue Olive space, Woody’s opened up last summer bringing quality food back to the Thea Foss Waterway. Now rounding the nine-month mark, Chef Chris Bangert and Maitre d’ Thomas Johnson have packaged a nice one-two punch.

JAKE: It should be noted that Coy Wood opened it originally as Woody’s on the Wharf in July 2007, a disaster on many levels. He brought in said big guns and changed the name in November 2007. Smart move.

JASON: I felt a little unsure of the vibe. I didn’t feel easily at place my first visit on a sunny Saturday early evening (you know, the one sunny Saturday we’ve had since September). Maybe the deck outside had my server’s attention and I felt ignored, or maybe the large windows allowed too much white light in the room — things were out of sorts.

JAKE: Yes, some of the blue hues associated with the ultra hip Blue Olive now mix with warm earth tones. The nautical touches sail into hip curves and modern shapes. Ignoring the crumbs on the floor one Sunday morning, the dining space feels fancy but with the game blaring in the middle lounge, chosen coffee and French toast arrives with orange juice and waffle, it feels disjointed. General Manager Thomas Johnson was the saving grace on all my visits. He gave top-notch service.

JASON: The server on my second trip was a space cadet. My wife ordered white wine and was hit by “I’m a wine snob. I only drink red” by the server. He said my pork chop would be bone-in — it arrived sans bone. He didn’t bring sugar with our tea because he said he gave up sugar and forgot others haven’t. He made so many odd statements that my humoring-face felt worn out by the time our check arrived.

JAKE: What works at Woody’s? The food. The sampler platter arrives with Woody’s three tastiest appetizers — hot smoked salmon with dill crème fraiche and capers; ultra crispy coconut prawns topped with a wasabi orange glace; and crab cakes with a kick to them. The crab cakes arrive thick, but not cakey. The three work off each other; the prawns’ sweetness balances the other two spicy dishes.

JASON: Yes, the food works at Woody’s. The King Salmon with a terragon red bell pepper coulis and white balsamic reduction on garlic chive potatoes tastes even better than it sounds. The wild salmon arrived with a nice crust holding in tender, moist meat. It is often said you can’t fool a Northwesterner when it comes to salmon, and if you put it on your menu you’d better know what you are doing. Bangert has nothing to fear — no one will mutiny over this gem. My pork special featured the same qualities — tender with flavor well intact.

JAKE: Woody’s spring menu debuted a few weeks ago with a winning Moroccan chicken and balsamic blue rib eye. The cardamom didn’t overpower the succulent chicken breast. Enjoyed the red quinoa and stone fruit compote on the side. The rib eye arrived just as ordered — medium rare with a blue cheese sauce to die for. Our Stag’s Leap Merlot ($67) off the Reserve wine list pumped up both dishes with subtle notes of anise, vanilla and cardamom.

Woody’s on the Water

Where: 1715 Dock St. E., Tacoma, 253.272.1433.
Hours: Breakfast 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday-Sunday, lunch at 11 a.m. Monday-Friday, open for
dinner nightly.
Cuisine: Halibut, salmon, pasta, burgers and steaks, plus a traditional breakfast with a few treasures.
Scene: Nautical meets hip with a view of the Museum of Glass and marinas and the game in the middle, open bar.
Drinkies: Fully-stocked bar with a tiny Reserve wine list.