Pacific Grill

1502 Pacific Ave., Tacoma, 253.627.3535

Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Sunday–Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday.

Scene: Like a men’s club with rich woods, crisp tablecloths, wide, open bar — and snappy service.

Menu: Excellent quality of steaks, chops and fish but with nice twists with uncommon ingredients, sauces and pasta.

Drinkies: Full bar but missing a few favorites such as Southern Comfort.

(This review originally ran March 23, 2006 in the print version of the Weekly Volcano.)

ANNOUNCER: The boys are tired of saying how great dining has become in Tacoma.  From this point forward, they will no longer compare the dining scene here today with the dismal grossness (yes, that’s a word) it once was.  From now on, it will be assumed that there are good, bad, and outstanding places to eat in the City Of Destiny. The Pacific Grill is one more example of the fact that Tacoma’s dining scene is bustling with excellent choices.

JASON: In the ground floor of the restored Waddell building at 15th and Pacific Avenue, Pacific Grill is a man’s place with dark wood and brick; it’s like a supper club.  It’s the kind of place where I like to order my scotch neat and start with a crab cocktail.

JOSH: There were some women there too, Jason, but I see your point.  I went twice for lunch, and both times I sat at a window table facing Pacific Avenue.  What a great place to sit back, enjoy a great meal and watch the world walk by your window.  All that was missing was the scotch that I didn’t order.  The crab cocktail was fantastic though.  It was served in a large cocktail glass, piled high with fresh crab and accompanied with enough cocktail sauce to qualify as a crab cocktail; I kept wondering if it was going to run out of crab there was so much.

JASON: I began my evening with the “bit” salad — a tasty selection of apple-smoked bacon, romaine, endive, and marinated tomatoes with a warm Dijon mustard vinaigrette.  This is a wake up the digestive juices starter — a vinegar-spice and mustard flavor with a rich bacon taste.  Similar to a warm spinach salad, the “bit” salad is both richer and wet. I dipped my fork in my wife’s Caesar and was happy I went with the “bit.”  The Caesar was average.

JOSH: On my second visit, I tried the charcuterie plate that is offered as an appetizer.  The plate was covered with three kinds of salami — sopressata, finnochiona and artisanal — assorted cheese, olives, and a baguette.  This was a meal unto itself. I could have sat there all day by the window with a glass of red wine and snacked.

JASON: When I made my lunch visit, I dived into the BLT — frankly, the best bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich I have ever tried.  On toasted rustic bread were mayonnaise, iceberg lettuce, tomatoes and apple-smoked Wisconsin bacon.  The bread and the fresh ingredients make this sandwich a classic.  A simple meal, it’s thick with a chewy, crusty bread, crisp lettuce and juicy tomatoes.  I should point out that lunch at Pacific Grill also comes with the crystal and silver, stiff white linens, and snappy service.

JOSH: I looked long and hard at the BLT (with an option for avocado), but went with the burger sliders.  At first sight they are just little burgers, but once you bite into them you realize that as much care went into them as is spent preparing the steaks and seafood.  The sliders are seasoned top sirloin topped with an aged cheddar cheese, a secret sauce and served on a fresh dinner roll cut in two.  The sliders are also served with the signature “skinny fries” that are offered during lunch.  These fries are truly skinny, flavorful and topped with a selection of garlic and herbs.

JASON:  I’m getting hungry.  I want to return to Pacific Grill because on the dinner menu they offer a Kobe top sirloin.  I didn’t order it, but having enjoyed Kobe a couple of times, I know it’s an “oh my God” beef experience.  Kobe tends to literally cut like butter with a fine, silky smooth beef taste that is leagues above prime in this country.

JOSH:  On my second visit, I had a starter Caesar salad, which was much larger that any starter salad I’ve ever had. It was a full plate of romaine lettuce, homemade croutons and — the best part — shaved Parmesan cheese, not the shredded stuff.  I also enjoyed the lunch-sized 7-ounce New York strip.  The excellent cut was served with sautéed mushroom buttons and covered in a marinade sauce that tied it all together.

JASON: A big fan of duck, of course, I chose that from the dinner menu.  The Duck Pappardelle arrives with a base of pappardelle pasta with duck ragu, squash, prosciutto, roasted root vegetables, cannelloni beans, cooked greens, duck leg confit, red wine sauce, rosemary and sage — a fabulous mix of sweet, rustic and fat swirled together.  It’s unique to the area and comforting on a stormy night.  Pacific Grill also has a fine selection of sides including garlic green beans and creamed spinach with goat cheese, a sushi bar and a competent wine list.

JOSH: I enjoyed the Julia Child brownie sundae, which was a tall glass filled to the top with homemade brownies, vanilla bean ice cream and a semi-sweet hot fudge sauce. I also enjoyed the semi-sweet chocolate tart.  This was different from any other I have had. Served on a caramelized pecan crust, the semi sweet tart is topped with caramelized pecans, caramel sauce and whipped cream — very rich and very filling.