Fern Room

Spend an evening eating, drinking, and listening to all that is the 1970’s

By Dutch Randall, Jackie Fender on January 4, 2019

ANNOUNCER: With vintage and retro so popular, the space formerly Tacoma Cabana, the new Fern Room is oozing with a 1970's vibe. From the décor, to the music, to the menu itself, everything is a journey to the past. Jackie and Dutch boogie on in to get the skinny.

JACKIE: Holy transformation, Batman. Owners Robyn and Jason Alexander have proven to be masters of the remodel. Situated in what was once Tacoma Cabana, the Fern Room boasts a retro vibe that has you reminiscing about your cool aunt's study. Fake ferns, vintage lamps and macramé owls adorn every corner. There are plenty of Instagram-worthy nooks to take advantage of while you imbibe. The menu keeps it kitschy classic with grasshoppers, cosmos, whiskey sours, salty dogs and classic beer and shot combos. I sipped on the Spaghetti Western to start. Bourbon, Galliano, Vic's Mix and bitters provide a boozy, slightly sweet and tart sipper floating around crushed pebble ice.

DUTCH: I loved the funky drink menu that included the Grasshopper which was a staple at all my parents' parties in the 70s. I thought twice, but ultimately chose a can of Rainier. On my next visit, however, I'm going to have to give the Salty Dog of grapefruit vodka, grapefruit juice and a salted vanilla grapefruit cordial; that's a lot of refreshing grapefruit! Or, the Fern Room Daiquiri deserves a look with its concoction of rum, brandy, gin, Vic's mix and cream. Truly, I think I could spend a Friday night here just journeying through the drink menu.

JACKIE: The Deviled Eggs boast "grandma's recipe" with bacon, dill, a pebble of pickle and green onion. These are just like grandmama's. The tacos come as a trio and highlight tender pork, rainbow slaw and cotija cheese. The only thing stopping these from being pure perfection was a bump of some kind of spicy sauce. But really, that's just me nitpicking.

DUTCH: The dinner menu reads like a trip through the TV dinner section at the grocery store. The fish sandwich, Salisbury steak or the Swedish meatballs have all occupied my freezer at one time or another. I ordered the Swedish meatballs which were handcrafted with beef and pork, and then laid over wide egg noodles and smothered in a mild brown gravy. The dish is finally garnished with chopped green onions that highlight a freshness that you will not confuse this plate with anything in your freezer.

JACKIE: I had to indulge in the Regal Beagle Burger. Another classic and a fun nod to sitcoms of eras past. A beef patty is sandwiched between a golden browned bun with fresh lettuce, onion and tomato, crisp bacon, pickle and a dollop of mayo and ketchup. Sometimes one does not need to reinvent the wheel to delight the taste buds.

DUTCH: I'm a sucker for a good tavern burger, and the Regal Beagle Burger hit the spot for me as well. I appreciate the extra effort found in the seasoning of the patty itself. But the dish I appreciated the most, at least nostalgically speaking, was the tomato basil bisque and grilled cheese sandwich. Though the tomato soup of my youth was out of a can, the fresh taste offered by the basil bisque certainly ups the stakes on this favorite. Sorry Mom . . . you're gonna have to make some changes. Reverting back to my childhood, I was unable to resist using the soup as a dip for my grilled cheese sandwich, and the pairing was everything I expected it to be, and I left completely satisfied.

FERN ROOM, 5 p.m. to midnight, Friday-Saturday, 728 Pacific Ave., Tacoma, 253.222.4184