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Historic dining

Communal dining anchors in the historic Walker building.

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Maxwell’s Speakeasy + Lounge at 454 St. Helens is a brilliant confluence of elements. The recently opened hangout occupies the first floor of the newly renovated Walker apartments, and is equal parts style, class and comfort. Its clean, pseudo-art deco interior is misleadingly chic. Despite its posh interior, when it comes right down to it, Maxwell’s is designed to be a neighborhood spot, and everyone is welcome.

“The bar is classic,” says restaurant mastermind and consultant Troy Christian, who helped create Maxwell’s with Metropolitan Development’s Casey and Gwen Ingles. “We keep it simple and straightforward. This is more of a lounge than a bar.” Maxwell’s is a period piece — homage to the Walker building’s historic heritage dating back to the mid 1920s. Christian and crew sought to bring back some of the original grandeur of their corner of the historic Walker apartment building. The menu and vibe, meanwhile, were carefully crafted to appeal to people living in the growing St. Helens’ neighborhood, and the greater Tacoma population by extension. Chef Sean Quinn, who helped open El Gaucho Tacoma on Pacific Avenue, and Masa and Asado on Sixth Avenue, is putting finishing touches on a menu that will be delivered under the direction of Maxwell’s Executive Chef Matt Colony, formerly of the Beach House at Purdy and opening chef at Pacific Grill. The menu is built from exclusively Northwest fare.

“You’re not going to get heirloom tomatoes from Chile in February,” said Christian.

Maxwell’s is intended to be a communal dining experience, with lots of complimentary, small menu items such as cheese crafted by local artisans, Walla Walla French onion soup, tenderloin tartar, and Northwest organic beet salad. Small plates, single cut selections and sides range in price from $3 for single cheese and butchers cuts to $14 for a plate of steamed clams. Most non-entrees run $6 to $8.

Signature entrees run a little more than Maxwell’s extensive selection of starters. Guests can get grilled king salmon with port wine-cherry sauce for $21; Lamb Porterhouse Piccata for $18; or an Espresso and Porcini Dusted Beef Tenderloin for just $14. Christian says a few more menu items will be added before all is said and done, with modest prices remaining intact.

“I want this restaurant to be the cornerstone of a fantastic neighborhood,” says Christian. “Five or six years down the road, this is going to be an unbelievable place to live. When that happens, I want our roots to be deep.”

[Maxwell’s Speakeasy + Lounge, 454 St. Helens Ave., Tacoma, 253.683.4115]

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