Man, do we love the smell of smoking meat.

It's comfy in Warthog, loaded with taxidermy animals, antlers, stuffed warthogs, wall plaques, figurines - up to the rafters and beyond.

The half dozen hot wings are sans breading and fried till moderately crisp - which is good in our book. The wings are seasoned - another plus in our book. We dunked the naked wings in house sauce: a tangy, deeply sweet barbecue made with molasses.

We admit we ordered the "nasty rice" just so we could say the word "nasty" in public. Sue us.

Warthog's corn bread is fluffy, a bit sweet and a bit salty - winning it two relieved thumbs-up since dried out, bland corn bread may be the worst thing ever. We crumbled some, drizzled it with barbecue sauce made with mustard (called jerk sauce), mixed it into a pile on my plate, and shoveled it up with a spoonful of beans. Mmm, mmm good. Big chunks of ham and onions provided a serious bonus to the beans' flavor.

For entrees, the Moo, Cluck, Oink is the way to go. At $12.65, chicken, beef brisket, and pork ribs arrive with two side dishes. That's a better deal than the Louisiana Purchase. The ribs are tender, moist and had meat falling off the bone.

Warthog's brisket will win everyone over with its smokey goodness.