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Tacoma's best chefs talk fall cooking

What to eat when the leaves turn

Chefs in the area look to heartier meals as the weather turns colder for fall. File photo

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The year is defined by its seasons, and the culinary world pays close attention. Even those not inclined to cook know that certain foods taste better in the summer than they do in the winter and vice versa. Most chefs aren't serving up watermelon or barbequing hot dogs in December. Still, while our culture associates many different foods with summer, and others with winter, and even some for spring, fall sort of gets stuck with ... pumpkin. And that's about it, unless you want to count Thanksgiving dinner, which is only one night of the season. Due to our curiosity of what constitutes "Autumn cuisine," we interviewed chefs from two of Tacoma's top restaurants to gain some insight into what the best serve when the leaves turn.

Eric Matthies, chef at C.I. Shenanigans on Ruston Way, said that, like during the rest of the year, part of the menu will reflect what is in season.

"Produce kind of slows down a little bit, but you have other products that are coming out, like squashes, hard squashes, the possibility of some berries - and we'll try to incorporate those into our menu on our fresh sheets," Matthies said.

Salmon plays a large role in the restaurant's dishes during Autumn as well, he added, as it happens to be a perfect time to catch the tasty fish.

"You specifically have spring salmon, you have your summer-run salmon, and then you have a late-fall salmon that usually runs in Alaska," he said. "Sometimes you'll see them running in Washington.  If it's available, we're taking it in."

Finally, there will always be a desire for more exotic meats and comfort foods during the slightly colder months, Matthies said.

"When fall comes, I think of heavier dishes. I start bringing in a few more specialty items, whether it be wild boar, elk, the little things out there that I can either turn into a stew or do a braising," he said. "The nights get a little colder, the sun comes down a little sooner, so we're just trying to create the feel of a home-cooked meal."

Meanwhile, Pacific Grill Chef Benjamin Sutton echoed Matthies' opinions when it came to what food tastes best between summer and winter: warm, robust plates.

"The summer menu is really fun because of the fresh produce, and now you move into fall, and you have a little more heartier dishes," he said. "We're working our way toward winter with heavier dishes. You're going to want a thicker soup, definitely warmer dishes. Some of our entrées in the summertime have a lot of colder sides, salads and such. As we move into fall, we're going to do more potato dishes, more things in that direction."

Of course, Sutton is willing to give a shout-out to our state's most iconic fall delicacy.

"I'm a huge fan of apples," he said. "I love apples, so fall is a good time window when apples are the best, especially with a cheese plate."

Whether it's wild boar or crisp apples, Tacoma's premier restaurants will certainly have a lot to offer come Autumn.

Pacific Grill, open Mondays to Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Fridays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4:30 to 11 p.m.; and Sundays, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4:30 to 10 p.m., 1502 Pacific Ave., Tacoma, 253.627.3535, pacificgrilltacoma.com

C.I. Shenanigans, open Mondays to Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m. to midnight; and Sundays, 9:30 a.m. to 1:45 p.m. and 3 to 11 p.m., 3017 Ruston Way, Tacoma, 253.752.8811, cishenanigans.com

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