Back to Features

South Sound burger rankings

The Volcano's official guide for when a cheeseburger craving hits

Pick-Quick’s triple cheeseburger is what all other burgers aspire to be. The fries are pretty delicious as well. Photo credit: Jackson Hogan

Email Article Print Article Share on Facebook Share on Reddit Share on StumbleUpon

I've grown up and spent 90 percent of my life in Tacoma, and like any good son of Grit City, the candy-cane-colored Frisko Freeze sign is seared into my brain forever. Frisko has always been a favorite of mine, and it's one of the first places I take Tacoma newbies. Still, with so many other local burger joints in the South Sound, is it truly the best? Or is it just familiar? I devised a rubric to grade 10 local drive-ins and stands to see if I truly do have a glaring bias. I attempted to include one place for each neighborhood/city, which is why certain restaurants were left out.

THE RUBRIC

10 points for burgers: Obviously the most important piece; it's what you came for.

5 points for fries: Bad fries can dull the glory of a great burger.

5 points for shakes: You have to wash everything down! Bonus points for having a large variety of flavors.

5 points for service: Essentially, speed, since no drive-in had particularly nasty employees.

5 points for value: Lower prices are a plus, but if they give you lots of food, a bigger check is tolerated.

So, the score will be formatted as burgers/fries/shakes/service/value. Got it? Okay, let's dig in!

TIER 4: ONLY GO HERE IF YOU'RE NEARBY

10) Don's Drive-In: 5/2/3/2/2 or 14/30

I feel bad putting Don's in last. It has a very cute vibe, almost like visiting your midwestern grandma. Still, facts are facts: The burger was tiny and not particularly memorable taste-wise, and the fries were simply okay. What didn't help matters was that the service was quite slow, despite a mostly vacant restaurant, and they charged about the same as most other drive-ins I visited despite offering smaller portions. At least the shakes were up to par, although they were nothing spectacular, either. One plus: It has homemade pie and corn dogs, which are awesome, but since no other place offered it, it would be unfair to add it in the score. Sorry, Puyallup, at least you'll always have the best scones.

10:30 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. (6:30 p.m.  on Sunday), 925 S. Meridian, Puyallup, 253.845.1790

9) Lefty's: 7/1/3/4/1 or 16/30

This relative newcomer wound up having some of the highest prices, up there with Van's, Big Tom and Frisko Freeze. But while Van's and Big Tom at least have massive portions and Frisko has high-quality ingredients, Lefty's raises the cost for no reason. Lefty's is to South Sound burgers what Epcot tacos are to authentic Mexican food: cleaned-up, blander and more expensive. The burgers are decent, although the pickle flavor was a bit strong for my taste, but it definitely earns points for a wide variety of excellent shake flavors and quick service. Still, the fries tasted like they came out of the microwave, and, as mentioned, it's not cheap. Unless you're craving for a butterscotch milkshake, I'd skip this one.

11 a.m. - 7 p.m. (6  p.m. on Sunday), 8317 27th St. W., University Place, 253.565.0887

TIER 3: NOTHING SPECTACULAR, BUT SOLID

8) Van's Burger: 8/1/3/2/3 or 17/30

Yes, we did just write an article praising this place, and the quirkiness of it really does make for a special experience! Still, its peculiarities can be a bit of a hurdle. The burgers themselves are incredible, with high-quality patties and unique toppings. And although it leaves you with quite a bill, you do get lots of food for your trouble. However, two things really drag down Van's: The fries are a complete disappointment, and due to Van's limited hours, you'll be waiting in line for quite a while. I can't blame them entirely for that, as they have a small staff. They also seem to be self-aware of this flaw and have an extra server walking from car to car taking orders for desserts and special drinks. Still, waiting 20 to 30 minutes just to order can feel like an eternity. If you visit Van's, make sure you have plenty of time to spare, and maybe just get the burger and a shake.

11 a.m. - 7 p.m., (closed Sunday to Wednesday), 7725 Yelm Hwy. SE #A, Olympia, www.vansburger.com

Van’s incredible high-quality burgers will give you your money's worth. Photo credit: Jackson Hogan
_______________________________________________________________________________________________

7) Best Burger: 7/3/4/2/3 or 19/30

The definition of average. The fries? Average. The value? Average. The wait? A little slow, but essentially average. There are a couple things that set Best Burger apart: Its burgers have a charcoal-barbeque taste, which is quite unique for drive-ins, and although the dressings aren't fantastic, the meat itself is top-notch. The shakes are unique, too, with a bit more emphasis on the creaminess than the actual flavor. Best Burger isn't anything miraculous, but it's the best option for those in the Lakewood/Steilacoom area.

8 a.m. - 9 p.m. (10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday), 7714 Custer Rd. W., Lakewood, 253.472.0736

Best Burgers is a Lakewood classic. Photo credit: Jackson Hogan
_______________________________________________________________________________________________

TIER 2: WORTH A ROAD TRIP

6) Mikie Burger: 7/5/3/2/3 or 20/30

Okay fine, it's technically in Tacoma, but this is Fircrest's baby. Well, it used to be, before it switched buildings in 2009. I know a few Fircresters who've disowned the place, so my expectations weren't too high. Still, it's looking like they might have exaggerated Mikie's demise. The burger definitely has a unique flavor with its Swiss cheese and "house sauce," but the real highlight is the fresh-cut fries, which were greasy perfection. The service is a bit slow, but at least they own it (it's in their slogan). Fircrest natives, maybe Mikie deserves a second chance!

11 a.m. - 8 p.m. (closed Sunday and Monday), 4915 Center St., Tacoma, www.mikieburger.com

The Mikie Burger is famous across Tacoma. Photo credit: Jackson Hogan
_______________________________________________________________________________________________

5) Burger Broiler: 8/3/2/4/4 or 21/30

For those from the Golden State who miss In-N-Out, Burger Broiler emulates the Cali icon's burgers shockingly well. Really, it's the same thing, from the giant tomato slice down to the sauce, with one exception: a more charbroiled patty. That, along with superior fries to In-N-Out and a more adventurous menu outside of the burgers, shakes and fries, from fro-yo to mac-n-cheese, makes the distance between Tacoma and the twisting palms seem not so long.

10 a.m. - 11 p.m. daily, 3801 McKinley Ave. E., Tacoma, www.burgerbroiler.com

4) Eastside Big Tom: 8/3/4/4/4 or 23/30

These guys don't take the "Big" in their name lightly: The signature Big Tom burger is absolutely massive. You might have to take a doggy bag. Of course, size doesn't matter if the taste isn't there, but luckily, the superior patty and the "goop" secret sauce helps it stand out in ways beyond sheer weight. The shake menu is quite daring, too, featuring oddball flavors like Nerds and Dr. Pepper. Sure, it's one of the pricier options, but when they give you this much quality food, it's somehow still a bargain.

10 a.m. - 8 p.m. (9 a.m. - 6:30 p.m. on Sunday), 2023 4th Ave. E., Olympia, 360.357.4852

Eastside Big Tom has the best burger in Thurston County. Photo courtesy Eastside Big Tom
_______________________________________________________________________________________________

TIER 1: LEGENDS OF ARTERY-CLOGGING

3) Frisko Freeze: 10/2/5/3/4 or 24/30

Surprise! It's not number one! I'm just as shocked as you; Frisko is a legend for a reason. Its burgers are the absolute best in the state (sorry, Dick's and Miner's) and are loaded with relish and an incredible patty. Its shakes possess an untouchable balance of creaminess and flavor. The prices have gone up, but sometimes, you have to pay a little more for higher quality. Still, when I let the nostalgia peel away, it did have one major flaw: the fries are surprisingly tasteless. Still, it somehow feels wrong to not put Frisko at the top. What could possibly be better?

10 a.m. - 11 p.m. (1 a.m. Friday-Sunday), 1201 Division Ave., Tacoma, 253.272.6843

2) Frugals: 8/3/5/4/5 or 25/30

Yep. This little metallic drive-in located in - gasp - Parkland - is better than Frisko. Are the burgers themselves better? No, but the overall experience might be. First, the shakes are on equal footing with the big boys, and earn brownie points for McFlurry-esque Butterfinger and Oreo options. The burgers are insanely juicy, with maybe the best condiment mix I've ever tasted from a fast-food joint. However, what really sets Frugals over the edge is how committed they are to their name. This place was easily the least costly, and with food this good, that's a great value. Combine that with relatively speedy service, and Frugals is a total dark horse.

10:30 a.m. - 11 p.m. (10 p.m. on Sunday), 10727 Pacific Ave. S., Tacoma, www.frugalburger.com

Frugals is another Pierce County classic. Photo credit: Jackson Hogan
_______________________________________________________________________________________________

1) Pick-Quick: 9/5/5/3/4 or 26/30

This is the granddaddy of them all, established way back in 1949. Pick-Quick isn't a nobody, but it certainly deserves more love than it gets. The burgers are the flavorful yet simple ideal that all others aspire to be, and if you're really feeling gluttonous, it even offers a triple cheeseburger. The shakes are perfection, particularly the mint variety. However, if there's one subject in which P-Q is leaps and bounds above the competition, it's the fries. Only Mikie Burger had spuds on equal footing, and theirs weren't paired with a burger as incredible as this Fife legend. Interestingly, Pick-Quick shares one major fact in common with Frugals: both are in the Auburn area. Perhaps that's the secret to South Sound drive-in success? There are few places as rich in fast-food spoils as the South Sound, so make sure you go and explore them for yourself!

10 a.m. - 8 p.m. (11 a.m. - 6 p.m. on Sunday), 4306 Pacific Hwy. E., Fife, www.pick-quick.com

Read next close

Military Life

Soundbuilt Homes brings quality to Puget Sound

comments powered by Disqus