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Spring in the air (and menu)

Seasonal changes are coming to local restaurants

MADEA'S PORK SANDWICH: A tasty alternative to beef, chicken or fried fish patties. Photo credit: Jennifer Johnson

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A running joke among Pacific Northwest residents is that we only have two seasons: August and winter. Spring, summer and winter might be a bit more accurate. While many restaurateurs and chefs would like to unveil quarterly seasonal menus, the reality is the seasons just don't cooperate in our climate like they do in other parts of the country (anyone for sunshine, hail, rain and snow all in the same day?). Many, like Gordon Naccarato of Pacific Grill, are holding off on menu changes until the weather is a little kinder, local spring produce starts coming in, and the public is ready for lighter dishes.

Here are some new options to be enjoyed now and also a smattering of changes to be looking forward to over the next couple months while staying bundled up.

Owned and run by Keitha Okafor along with her sister, Mary Williams, Madea's Cajun Cafe (417 Garfield St., Tacoma) is a casual order-at-the-counter soul food restaurant that opened near Pacific Lutheran University just after the New Year. Served in a paper-lined basket with plastic silverware, the lack of china plate and metal flatware does not change the fact that the pork loin sandwich is a tasty alternative to beef, chicken or fried fish patties. Minimally salted and peppered, pork is juicy and tender, with its own clear flavor allowed to speak for itself. Plans are in the works at Madea's to sell homemade desserts in the near future.

I'm guessing Sarah Cannon, chef and owner of Bair Bistro (1617 Lafayette St., Steilacoom), is waiting for warmer weather and more people out and about in Pierce County's picturesque first official town before taking the gamble and extending business hours and offering dinner - like she announced intentions of earlier this year. While those changes are still in the works, Cannon has officially acquired a license to sell select beers and wines, a nice accompaniment to her menu. Currently, the quaint eatery serves breakfast and lunch daily, except Monday. Of note: Bair Bistro occasionally offers gluten-free clam chowder and gluten-free bread. Heaping plates of hand-breaded onion rings and hand-dipped milkshakes are always available.

Justin Peterson, co-owner of Peterson Bros 1111 (1111 South 11th St., Tacoma), says that he, brother and business partner Rob Peterson, and cook Mike Parker have been sampling meats, breads and other products this week in anticipation of opening their Hilltop Tacoma bar at the end of April (if not sooner). "The tap lines are being run for eleven beers. We're focusing on local Washington and Oregon brews and will have rotating taps to keep it interesting. No cheap lame beer," Peterson tells me. The dining menu will be fairly basic, with many daily specials. Anticipated hours are 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. with possible breakfast in the fall.

JW Restaurant (4107 Harborview Dr., Gig Harbor) celebrated a full year of delicious dishes of New American "creative comfort" cuisine March 6. A new, soon-to-be-launched spring menu will have a new look; it will be attached to cedar plank boards with the Gig Harbor restaurant's logo custom etched (oooh, fancy). JW's original chef, Justin Goodfellow, has taken the position of food and beverage director for the restaurant at Madrona Links golf course (3604 22nd Ave. N.E., Gig Harbor). Goodfellow has been reworking the menu, appearance, and the overall operation of that restaurant since last year while still overseeing JW.

Marrow Kitchen & Bar (2717 Sixth Ave., Tacoma) has added a few side dishes - like asparagus, Brussels sprouts, fingerling potatoes, and Baja shrimp - to a new spring menu featuring shiitake beignets with sweet sake sauce, calamari with chorizo and ostrich and duck sliders. In keeping with chef and owner Kyle Wnuk's ambitious nature, I'm sure we'll see another menu change for this gastro pub before the Fourth of July.

Check back soon for a first-visit report on Pimienta Bistro (opened in January) and the Cliff House (reopened March 14).

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