A strip mall restaurant in Federal Way turned out to be anything but expected. The metal-trimmed glass front façade at Peppercorn Bistro & Bar gives way to ultra high ceilings, while reclaimed rustic wood wall accents and a color palette mimicking the rich spices found in the restaurant's Latin American-European cuisine invite the opportunity to close your eyes and imagine what the words "swanky-rustic" might mean. Add intentionally paired Washington and European wines, creative cocktails with international liquors, prompt intelligent service and a moderately priced lunch and dinner menu and the full picture comes into focus.

Lunchtime at Peppercorn means casual comfort and an unrushed experience. Purple veined beet greens mingle with chopped romaine, green leaf lettuce and spinach in a nicoise salad. A beautiful, plump piece of grilled salmon crowns the dish. It flaked easily, retaining the right kind of oiliness. The true fishy flavor melds nicely with halved golden potatoes, salty Kalamata olives, sweet tomatoes and hardboiled egg. Haricort verts hold a welcome snap. Calamari appetizer is lightly seasoned and barely breaded - perfect for lunch.

Peppered shrimp bisque is topped with bay shrimp and served in a cute little ceramic pot with a lid. Ham and Gruyere cheese panini is fairly dry, but when eaten with a simple salad dressed in champagne vinaigrette, it all worked.

Peppercorn Bistro & Bar celebrates a one-year anniversary this month.

[Peppercorn Bistro & Bar, 34029 Hoyt Road SW, Federal Way, 253.838.2398]