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Hamburger helper

Giving advice to the Food Network

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Weekly Volcano headquarters received a call two weeks ago from the Food Network in New York City — apparently the big city foodies want to explore hamburger dives in the Northwest (stay tuned to your television).



I compiled a list for them of my favorite burger joints in the South Sound. Not your corporate Red Robin or Ram types (both tasty in their genres), but the low-to-the-ground spots where the bun meets the road. Places that possibly might give you pause — where you ask yourself if that double burger might be the cause of your all-night horizontal vigil on the couch — and yet every moan was worth it.



I based my list on the trifecta of comfort food — my BFFs known as BFSs (burger, fries and shake). They are the patriotic foods of our country — part of our inalienable rights. And, as of yet, the terrorists and Homeland Security haven’t found a way to modify or take them away from us.



The Food Network should visit our area to see our patriotic pride, and when they do, I told them to not miss the following:

Best Burgers

They call themselves Best Burgers (7714 Custer Road W., Lakewood), and well, they are pretty close. While not the best, the BFS here is delectable. Highlights include a large sesame seed bun, outdoor grilled flavors in the meat, mashed potatoes deep fried with the title “Spudsters,” and thick shakes.

Big Toms

The drive-in is a shack where motorists pull up and a smiling teenager walks up to take your order. The Big Tom (2023 Fourth Ave. E., Olympia) menu is a large billboard on the side of the building, and this is as close to heaven as many of us will get. I told the Food Network lady that if airtime allows for only one South Sound recommendation, make it Big Toms. The Big Tom BFS delivers thousands of gut-pleasing calories with full force. The Goop — a mustard/mayo combo, plus 20-plus flavored shakes will redefine BFS everywhere. Yes it’s that good!

Frisko Freeze

It’s almost silly to take space to mention the obvious, but for the newbies in the South Sound, Frisko Freeze (1201 Division, Tacoma) is a classic. We’ve always liked the approach to food at Frisko — namely that you have to stand outside on the curb with other hungry patrons to order your food. Frisko stays open late and is a favorite haunt for those on a munchie search. The food is hot and the shakes thick.

Jubilee Hamburger Restaurant

At the fringe of the Lincoln District, this space looks like an old Dairy Dell but delivers a mighty three punch with lots of comforting grease. The number one reason to visit Jubilee (858 S. 38th St., Tacoma)? The shakes are thicker than cement. The menu is also extensive.

Little Holland Drive-in

The name drive-in makes my mouth water. It sounds exotic in an Americana sort of way. Little Holland (5008 Center Dr., Tacoma) delivers on the promise, too, serving up cheap burgers, fries and shakes without any indoor seating. Recently construction operates all around this tiny place that now sticks out like a delicious thumb.

Mary’s Burger Bistro

A slight upgrade from the competition, Mary’s (2301 Pacific Ave., Tacoma) operates in a tiny diner space with plenty of kitsch. Like its peers, the burgers, fries and shakes will literally put you on your ass — it’s a calorie overload that can’t be overcome with anything but a nap.

Puyallup Fair

The famous fair burgers, which are mostly a quarter pound of beef smothered in onions are not the end all be all but as a rite of fall, they taste great while ducking into the cow barns to escape the rain. The Earthquake burgers near the pavilion get top marks for their hugeness, but we still prefer a Hamburger Myers classic — grilled meat and onions with a smile. The only drawback is once you purchase your fries and burgers, you need to find the Dairy Barn to grab a shake (still it’s worth the effort). And, the other drawback — no Fair until spring.

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