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Loving The Lights

There are many reasons to love The Harbor Lights.

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Well, the birthday has come and gone, however with one small change. The birth “day” has morphed into the birth “week.” This extensive celebration is fabulous for my social life, but not so much for my figure. I enjoyed seven days of decadent food and libation with family and friends. But no birth “week” would be complete without my yearly pilgrimage to The Harbor Lights.



Since opening in 1959, The Harbor Lights has been a regular haunt with my family since I was old enough to start eating crab. I thought I hated the stuff until my parents force-fed it to me one time, and now I can’t get enough. Why would a parent force-feed their kid something that runs about $20 a pound?



Did you know that back in the day The Harbor Lights issued their own credit card to loyal customers? My dad used his card so much it finally broke apart around 1987. They stopped honoring them soon thereafter, but what a great customer perk. I challenge any restaurant around here to resurrect that benefit.



It’s really tough not to love The Lights. From its crazy vintage interior to its crazy vintage servers (just kidding ladies), you cannot argue that they have a recipe for success that even Anthony’s was smart enough not to mess with when they bought it in 2000. They even continue to hand pour those stiff drinks that have made them famous, “I’ll have a little Coke in my rum, please.”



The last time we visited for dinner, things were a little rough around the edges, so we stayed away for a while. This time around they were back on point and traditional as ever. The cocktail server even schooled me when I tried to explain my dirty martini theory (make it dusty please, NOT dirty). But that, my friend, is one of the reasons I love this place.



Now if you haven’t grown up around The Harbor Lights like me and many other Tacomans, you may not understand the lure. Most of the food is deep fried, they use iceberg lettuce in the salads, there’s an assortment of crackers to munch on at your table, and to top it off menu items are pretty pricey. But who cares? You are living Tacoma history. And it tastes good.

My evening started with dusty martini and some breadstick snackin’. Then our lovely and attentive server, Deb recommended the Cajun prawn cocktail and steamed mussels to start. God bless you, Deb. The prawns were big, chilled and accompanied by a sweet and smoky dipping sauce that complimented their delicate, fresh flavor. And even after we finished the heavenly mussels, we couldn’t stop dipping our bread into the tasty broth that was left behind.

My dinner salad was simple fixings donned with a big cup-o-blue cheese dressing. My entrée is always the same: the Captain’s Plate. There’s a little bit of everything: scallops, prawns, shrimp, salmon, oysters, cod, and Dungeness crab. Everything is deep fried except the crab, and I passed on the oysters because I’m not a fan. I chose french fries over the baked potato because frankly, they looked like worn out old shoes.



The wine list could use a little love, but I found the Firesteed Pinot Noir from Oregon and was saved. Most top-shelf liquors are available and a few vintage ports. A visit to the bar where you will find lots of vintage liquor bottles and memorabilia scattered throughout is worth the trip. It’s like being flung back into your Uncle Vic’s basement bar circa 1968.



The evening ended with some crème brulee (Mom calls it burnt cream), and coffee. The folks, the husband and I were fat and happy. There was nothing left to do but stare longingly out at Commencement Bay and daydream about the old schooners of yesteryear. Hmmm.



Eat out Tacoma. We need your love.



[The Harbor Lights, 2761 Ruston Way, Tacoma, 253.752.8600]

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