Was it that long ago? It’s hard to admit how fast time flies and how much older I’m getting every year. It seems like only last year, my parents were rounding up my four older brothers and me into the station wagon for a “special” dinner out. We’d climb into the Country Squire and drive up north to a Chinese restaurant adjacent to the Fred Meyer. Emblazoned dragons lined the walls, ornate gold trim abounding, fat bronzed Buddha bellies to rub for luck; it was a whole new world for our Afghan/Norwegian family (yeah, try to beat that combination).

My father would order up a feast of kung pao, moo shoo, chow mein, fried rice, sweet and sour anything, and of course, egg drop soup.  There was no real flavor to speak of, but plenty of bright colors, strange mushrooms, baby corn, and the spinney tray at the center of the table. All of this finished off by the much anticipated fortune cookie. It was a night of wonder for us kids.

Then I grew up.

And my taste buds led me toward a nice fresh piece of seared tuna or a bowl of steaming hot Pho rather than the fried, dyed Chinese food of yesteryear. Once in a while, however, I have an undeniable urge to grab some old school Chinese.  Lately in fact, I’ve been shirking my deep love of Pan-Asian cuisine for the Asian food of my childhood. Call it a mid-life crisis or sorts, but I’m looking for what we had back then. Where is the deep fried almond chicken with the horribly coagulated gravy? Where’s the FD&C #3 neon-red sweet and sour?

I have to tell you that I do remember, just a year ago, dining at the Monsing, a Tacoma landmark that offered up fabulous old school Chinese, with a lounge that served drinks rivaling the stiffy’s served at Harbor Lights. Unfortunately, they’ve since closed, though I’m not sure why. Perhaps due to all of the construction on Sixth Avenue, perhaps due to the drive-through Panda Express that opened up in their parking lot. Whatever the reason, it was a sad day for us 30+ something’s who fondly remember the place. 

Lieu’s Restaurant

Thus, I was forced to search for a replacement retro-Chinese venue. On the recommendation of several friends, I drove to Lieu’s in Parkland. The Mongolian beef was spicy, not too spicy, tender and devoured. The egg drop soup was perhaps the best I’ve ever tried. Though somehow the experience itself wasn’t what I had hoped for. I felt rushed and on display (sitting smack dab in the middle of the bright dining room), which somewhat tainted the ambiance for me.

Jade Palace

My next foray took me to the Jade Palace in University Place. While I highly recommend the appetizer plate; I just didn’t get the vibe I was looking for in yet another strip mall eatery. The place was packed, the food decent, but not like I remember. 

Great Wall Casino

Speaking of strip mall Chinese, I had to try the Great Wall Casino on 38th Street in Tacoma. We may have been the only two in the restaurant, but the casino was swarming with folks ready to get lucky. We decided to bet on the Hong Kong style chow mein. Readers, this chow mein is brilliant! Baked and crispy on top, saucy and rich under the crust. You’ll be fighting over the last thin noodle.

Granted, there are many Chinese restaurants in the South Sound that I did not try, however, I did find a place that I can call home.

Imperial Dragon

The stand-alone building located at 6805 Sixth Ave. is home to the Imperial Dragon Restaurant, which, in my humble opinion, is the one and only true “old school” Chinese place left in town.

As you cross the foot bridge leading to the front door, you’ll be eagerly greeted by the resident Koi that live in the pond below. They’re an enthusiastic bunch, always clamoring for attention. The charming fish are a draw for me, as I constantly have to drag myself away from them to approach the heavy wooden doors that lead to the dining room. The atmosphere is authentic, and the décor expected. There are many nights I’ve felt privileged to witness Chinese wedding parties celebrating recent nuptials here, everyone dressed to the nines and all smiles. Lovely.

The food is everything I remember. Almond fried chicken with beige gravy, shrimp fried rice with chunks of egg and peas, moo goo gai pan dotted with crunchy water chestnuts, and soy drenched kung pao beef just like I had as a kid. The booths are lipstick red vinyl, the green tea is hot, chopsticks aren’t a special request, and the lounge has karaoke rocking every weekend. Let’s hope Imperial Dragon can survive Tacoma’s restaurant renaissance. This is the place to get your old school fix.



[Lieu’s Restaurant, 12151 Pacific Ave. S., Parkland/Tacoma, 253.535.5680]

[Jade Palace Chinese Restaurant, 3810 Bridgeport Way W., University Place, 253.564.7170]

[Great Wall Casino, 3121 S. 38th St., Tacoma, 253.473.2500]

[Imperial Dragon, 6805 Sixth Ave., Tacoma, 253.565.5477]