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Matriarch Lounge

Where rich food and drink mingle with low-key vibes

The Camel Kefta seasoned with Lebanese and Moroccan spices. Photo credit: Dutch Randall

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ANNOUNCER: This week, while Jackie works behind the bar, Dutch joins Christina to check out the Matriarch Lounge. It's a unique mixture of a modern, funky vibe of food, drinks and décor that Jackie has worked so hard to help create.

DUTCH: I was instantly impressed by the large and welcoming atmosphere that works well in the converted Carpenters Union building and the art gallery, small concert venue and adjacent Honey Coffee shop.

CHRISTINA: The swankiness of Matriarch doesn't stop at the leather, velvet and wood décor, either. The menus are sprinkled with rich and hidden delights, including edible gold glitter in the whiskey-based Golden Girl cocktail (no, it won't leave you with a golden "grill," as much as I wanted it to), and exotic dishes featuring camel, octopus and bone marrow. But let's go back to the bar for just a moment ...

DUTCH: With so many creative cocktails to choose from, it was not an easy task; I really wanted to try them all. But I ultimately settled on the Blood Moon, which combined Mezcal with vermouth, orange juice, cherry heering and citrus rind. The sweet, dry and smoky flavors join together in a unique drink that went well with the array of spices offered in the sharable plates on the menu. Additionally, great care is taken in the presentation of both the food and drinks.

CHRISTINA: I can't resist a well-crafted bourbon drink, myself, so I opted for the Blossom. This sweet and smooth concoction features bourbon, chamomile honey, citrus and port float. The combination of savory bourbon and surprisingly light honey flavors make for a refreshing afternoon-reprieve from the summer heat. 

DUTCH: Much like the cocktail menu, I could have spent all night trying each of the selections on the menu here. Dishes such as beef heart or the pork belly available in either a Korean pepper or Moroccan pepper seasoning demonstrate the chef's care in offering multiple experiences for each customer. The Moroccan peppered pork belly is served in twos and smothered in sauce, then skewered for easy eating. Next time, I'm ordering two plates. Another skewer that I couldn't pass up was the Camel Kefta. Ground camel is seasoned with both Moroccan and Lebanese spices, cooked medium rare and rests atop a garlic yogurt for dipping. The seasoning drives this dish, making it surprisingly mellow, lacking any gamey flavor at all.

CHRISTINA: I ordered two plates. How could I not? My pescatarian palette led me to overindulge in "Adam's Mushrooms on Toast" and the grilled octopus salad. Unlike most fancy-pants toast dishes -- which tend to be overloaded with toppings and quick to dissolve into soggy messes -- this dish is perfectly portioned and plated. The mushrooms atop are simmered in an indulgent vermouth butter and topped with pecorino romano cheese, and the baguette below stays magically crisp till the end. The grilled octopus salad didn't disappoint either. The octopus was tender, not overcooked (Hallelujah!), and mildly spiced to complement the tangy flavors of olives and mint tucked within a bed of greens below. 

MATRIARCH LOUNGE, 4-10 p.m., Sunday-Thursday; 4 p.m. to midnight, Friday & Saturday, 1322 S. Fawcett Ave., Tacoma, almamatertacoma.com/matriarch-lounge


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