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It was once better

Lemon Grass has lost its edge in Lacey

Lemon Grass in Lacey gets a mixed review. Photo credit: Jake de Paul

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Announcer: There was a time in Lacey that the Lemon Grass reigned supreme. One of the first finely crafted Asian places in the area, Lemon Grass presented quality ingredients in lovely dishes - hard to beat in an area littered with fast food.  But on a few recent visits, things just aren't the same.

Jason: I remember dining there five years ago and how excited locals were to have quality Thai and Asian food.  Having dined for decades here and abroad, the Lemon Grass was certainly holding their own against other Asian-type bistros.  I don't know what happened. I've made two recent trips, and both times, the food is less fresh - plain and uninteresting.  

Jake: I'll start with the good news.  I can rarely resist a fun and creative drink, and there are several offered that add to the dining experience. Two such cocktails offered at $10 are the Mango Tango which combines Malibu mango rum, orange curacao, Captain Morgan rum, fresh mango puree and lime zest, and the Paradise Mojito made up of Bacardi Gold, Bacardi Pineapple, mint, limes and fresh pineapple.  These will get your taste buds jumpstarted!

Jason: I went Thai with Pad Thai and was unimpressed.  The chicken was rubbery, almost as if preheated.  The sauce was bland, almost like it came out of a bottle.  There was a watery consistency to everything as well.  What happened?

Jake: I started my meal out with the King's chicken wings.  These are lightly battered, deep fried, and then drenched in a sweet honey and garlic sauce.  Served piping hot with a garnish of carrots, cilantro and pineapple.  The bad part is the pineapple was from a can.

Jason: I tried two different curries, both lukewarm and uninteresting.  I gobbed on the hot sauce, but then it just tasted like cold hot sauce.

Jake: I found a few things on the menu that were good - contrary to your feelings oh cranky one!  The Crispy Egg Noodles are an opportunity to enjoy traditional Thai food but with a twist.  The crispy fried yellow egg noodles adds a creative texture to fresh carrots, broccoli, onions and cilantro, and a choice of meat.  I went with chicken which was then served with a Thai-spiced sauce that I ordered with medium heat providing a good balance of flavor and heat.  I also believe that I found the hidden gem in the menu with the sweet and sour pork chops.  Several thin-cut chops are battered and deep fried, then covered in sweet and sour sauce and served with rice, apples and pineapple.  The crunchy exterior and flavorful sauce are what set this dish apart.  However, like the chicken wings, the pineapple is from a can; a dish this good deserves the best, and the best means fresh.

Jason: I'm glad for you, sad for me.

Jake: You're weird.

Lemon Grass, 8125 Quinault Dr. NE, Lacey, 360.459.9511, thelemongrassrestaurants.com

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