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Adventures in Ethiopian cuisine is a drive up I-5

Behold the majesty of Dukem’s Yesega Combination. Photo credit: Christian Carvajal

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Let's start with the question of "where." The closest Ethiopian eatery to most Weekly Volcano readers is Dukem Restaurant and Market, near the intersection of 518 and 509 highways in Burien. It's in a tightly packed strip mall. Don't let that stand in your way. In fact, bring an empty stomach! The portions here are too big for the tables, especially if one dives in as eagerly as we did and orders the Yesega Combination platter. It arrives on a tin plate the size of a large pizza.

What exactly did we order, then? The Yesega plate is covered in a flat, spongy bread called injera. It looks like a whole-grain crepe. Did the server forget to bring you a fork? No, the injera itself is your utensil. You'll tear off a piece with your right hand and use that to scoop up various wots (stews) arrayed around the plate. Be careful, though, southpaws! Even you are advised to use your right hand here, as the left is traditionally reserved for, shall we say, personal hygiene. Don't be surprised if you see people feeding each other. That's a practice called gursha, a gesture of respect. Ethiopian cuisine isn't fast food, so wait times can be leisurely. Dukem offers the convenient option of phoning in lunch orders beforehand.

Dukem's version of kitfo, usually ground meat served raw, is lightly cooked. It tastes like spiced hamburger meat as used in Texas-style chili and is seasoned with an orangy Ethiopian spice blend called mitmita. The dish alicha wot siga resembles Mexican green chili but has a sweeter, lighter flavor. Key wot siga is an earthy, brown beef stew, and is pleasantly greasy. (Yes, "pleasantly greasy" is a thing.) The spice mixture here is red berbere. Its flavor is difficult to describe, but the Amharic word key translates as "spicy." The dish is similar to Yucatecan, achiote-based stews. For carnivorous Americans, the biggest crowd pleaser at Dukem is likely to be tibs, meaning grilled cubes of steak in jalapeno and onions. In another context, we'd call that fajita meat, especially once it gets wrapped in a "tortilla" of injera. The Yesega Combination includes bitter greens and ayib, a mild cottage cheese, to take the edge off all that spice.

You'll find a number of vegetarian dishes as well, and for good reason. All three Abrahamic religions earned worshipers in Ethiopia, so Wednesday and Friday are often meat-free days in that culture. The Ethiopian Orthodox Church also fasts half of each day for the two months preceding Easter. Ethiopian cuisine pairs well with Perrier or soda, but remember to order a stiff Ethiopian coffee at the end of the meal. That brew sure packs a wallop.

Once you've said selam ("peace," the Amharic "hello") to Dukem, you may be inspired to venture even farther north. Seattle boasts at least half a dozen respected Ethiopian restaurants, including Altaye (8135 Rainier), Jebena (1510 NE 117th), and spicy Saba (110 12th Ave.)

Dukem Restaurant And Market, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, 215 SW 152nd St., Burien, 206.453.3699

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