Names can be misleading; I expected Express Cuisine to be a Chinese food drive-thru. It's not. We began with an herb-coated, baked montrachet appetizer. I smashed roasted garlic cloves on sliced baguette, added basil chiffonade, sun-dried tomatoes and smeared the goat cheese on top for a perfect bite.

Wines varied - including French, Spanish, Italian, Argentine, and some from Washington, Oregon, California and a Vashon winery. Pinot noir from A to Z Winery slid easily from vegan gazpacho to prime rib.

The prime rib came highly recommended by both islanders and mainlanders, and did not disappoint. Ordered from the anti-inflammatory menu (less meat, more vegetables and grains), a six-ounce cut was accompanied by roasted squash, sweet potato, carrot and red onion with side of garlicky green beans. Predominantly medium rare with a seasoned outer crust, horseradish wasn't necessary, but tasted wonderful with the juicy mea

The chicken and sausage paella was more of a French Cajun dish than an Italian one, due largely to rich saffron rice and sliced sausage reminiscent of a mild Andouille. Meats were plentiful, but the basil chiffonade, red onion, marinated artichoke hearts and bits of yellow and red bell pepper made that dish a killer.

Some desserts at Express Cuisine are made in-house (key lime cheesecake and rhubarb coffee cake) while others (chocolate cake) are not. Against our combined better judgment and straining belt buckles, we split a piece of springy coffee cake. It was the right, if gluttonous, choice.

Hours: 5 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. Wednesday - Saturday