Olympia has Thai places like Philadelphia has Philly sandwich joints - and not all Thai places in the state capital are created equal. Some are geared toward speed, price and a bustling takeout business, some toward overall dining experience with aims at being high-end. Still others focus squarely on food quality - décor and ambiance be damned. Narai Asian Cuisine, the newest contender, falls right in the middle - having opened recently in the location that previously held Spicy Ginger restaurant on Fourth Avenue.

At $2 a pop, humongous fresh spring rolls, goi cuon, were a great, healthy deal for an appetizer. They aren't listed on the menu, but ask and ye shall receive.  The outer wrapper was soft, chicken inside tender. Julienned veggies had a nice snap, and all were moist, which seems to indicate that they hadn't been laying around re-cut for any real length of time. Bonus. Lemon grass chicken satay came three skewers to an order, an odd number to share. Both appetizers came with warm peanut dipping sauce - goi cuon with sweet chili sauce and satay with a favorite of mine in the sweet and tangy cucumber side salad. Don't be fooled, it's not a leaf lettuce salad; it's cucumber, red onion and red pepper cut into little squares swimming in a sugary tart bath.

Hours: Open Daily except Monday. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Wednesday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Thursday-Friday, noon-10 p.m. Saturday, noon-8 p.m. Sunday