A bit of mystery surrounds Lakewood's Koreatown on South Tacoma Way. Many stores lacking any English signage are found in what's officially Lakewood's International District. Between 84th and 96th streets the area may remind one more of Sacramento or Los Angeles than Pierce County. Gems are hidden here, however, and the inability to read or speak Korean or other Asian languages can be an unfortunate deterrent to discovering them. O-bok Restaurant is just such a gem and has been open since 1989 on "South Korea Way" - as one sign in Korean refers to it inside. Restaurant pioneer, owner and cook Sun Ok Chung makes the grub just like she has for the past 20 years, serving home-style traditional Korean dishes.

Whole pan-fried flounder is crisp outside, had soft flesh inside and a fantastic salty flavor. Kun mahndoo - pan-fried beef pot stickers - are meaty. Beef bulgoki is simmered in a sweet, spicy hot sauce with white onions served on a piping hot skillet. Dwaenjahng jihgae - a stone pot stew of soy bean paste, long ribbons of semi-soft tofu and veggies - is cloudy, reddish and full of salty goodness.

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Wednesday,11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday