The drive-in burger joint is as American classic as red pickup trucks and fake wrestling. That might be why they still thrive, despite giant fast food chains becoming more and more prominent over the past few decades. The key is that they're usually local operations that have a strong history, like Frisko Freeze or Eastside Big Tom. However, what if one of the most beloved drive-ins in the South Sound was not only built fairly recently and located in the middle of nowhere, but is also only open three days a week? As strange as it sounds, that's how Van's Burger has operated since 2000, and they've been nothing but a huge success.

Van's, not to be confused with the shoes, can be difficult to hunt down; their location has an Olympia address, but it's essentially just the rural outskirts of Lacey. It's a solid drive from anywhere other than the deepest suburbs of that region, but according to the restaurant's owner and manager, Erica Van Lierop, placing the drive-in out in the boonies had a definite purpose.

"That area is where my family had lived and done business since the 1940s, so it never seemed like the outskirts to me," Van Lierop said. "I grew up near our family farm and sold daffodils and berries from the spot where Van's is situated."

Of course, if the food is good enough, people will come no matter how long the drive may be. Still, what might be more puzzling about Van's is their odd hours. In an era where more and more places, especially those in fast food, are open 24/7, Van's isn't even open every day of the week, or even six days a week like Chick-Fil-A. Their hours are 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Thursday through Saturday.  In fact, it has earned them the nickname, "The Place That's Never Open," something they're quite proud of. The main reasoning behind the limited hours of operation is that a small crew not only keeps the quality of the food consistent, but also provides familiar faces for frequent customers, according to Van Lierop.

Naturally, it also helps that the small staff wasn't a huge fan of overworking themselves, and since there's nobody else to take their shift, the three-day workweek fit the drive-in perfectly. Of course, Van Lierop understands that people would love more availability, and says that they were open for more hours in the past, and they might increase them in the future ... or maybe not.

"I see our hours expanding in the future - we're open three more hours a week than we were last year - but Sunday is the one day that will always be off limits," Van Lierop said. "Life gets so busy and it's nice to know that you'll always have that one day to recharge."

So it's only open a few times a week, and it's smack in the middle of nowhere with often lines taking 30 minutes or more. Luckily, the burgers are massive, juicy and loaded with toppings, and the shakes are grade-A, thick and fresh as well. You might have to plan your day around getting your hands on a Van's burger, but once you take a bite, you'll see why it's already a Thurston County favorite.

VAN'S BURGER, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. ,Thursday-Saturday, 7811 Yelm Hwy. SE, Olympia, 360.412.8267, vansburger.com