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South Sound dining destinations

Katie Downs on the waterfront is more than pizza. Photo credit: Dutch Randall

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It's time to get out of your dining rut and discover new South Sound restaurants. And to help you, we have a few suggestions, at places you should definitely try.

Paesan Kitchen and Bar
The Foss Waterway in Tacoma is quickly becoming a destination spot for walking, socializing, and anyone looking for a casual and comfortable dining experience.  One of those places is Paesan Kitchen and Bar, established in 2013.  Located on the west side of the waterway, Paesan has a small comfortable feel on the inside and a large open patio perfect for any summer evening.

The root of a good pizza is cheese, sauce and crust and Paesan nails it. Photo credit: Dutch Randall

With only a handful of tables in the dining room, you have a clear view of the buzzings on Dock Street and local rail traffic.  The interior matches the Dock Street industrial feel. Where most small locations place the focus on the bar, which of course is clearly visible, the focus here is on the wood-fired pizza oven.  It is the first thing you see as you walk in just above all the stacks of wood all ready to stock the oven.

I have a theory when it comes to pizzerias: If they can't make a decent cheese pizza, then there is no point in my looking further into the offerings. Every Paesan pizza begins with the signature house-made flat bread crust cooked to perfection in the previously mentioned wood oven.  Top this off with a perfectly balanced, sweet pomodoro sauce and three different cheeses, and this may be one of the best pizzas out there.

Though Paesan offers other appetizers and salads, it is the pizza that drives the business.  In addition to a really great cheese pizza, every pizza is built on the same foundation, and then topped with combinations such as margherita, salami or puttanesca.  The menu also features some options without the traditional pomodoro sauce, such as several selections with simple garlic oil or the BBQ chicken with house-made BBQ sauce.

In addition to a surprisingly large wine menu, Paesan also has some truly unique cocktails to pair with the pizzas.  Cocktails such as the Paesan Negroni, which combines gin and vermouth with orange juice, or the Gallent Mojito, which adds fennel and Galliano to the traditional rum, soda and mint blend.

Paesan means "friend" in Italian, and after visiting Paesan Kitchen and Bar, it will feel like a friend with great service, drinks and even better pizza.

Paesan Kitchen and Bar, 1701 Dock St., Tacoma, 253.301.3835, paesankitchen.com

Katie Downs
There is still plenty of summer weather left, which means that there are still plenty of days to hit Tacoma's waterfront restaurants with its amazing food and view of Commencement Bay.  Many restaurants have come and gone over the years, but Katie Downs has stood the test of time, well ... since 1982, because it offers a great Northwest theme including fresh seafood, award-winning pizza, and signature gourmet hamburgers.  The full bar includes spirits, wine and Northwest brews.

Katie Downs' uniqueness on the waterfront stems from its brightly lit casual atmosphere where you seat yourself and order your own drinks and food directly from the bar.  From the moment you walk in the door, you know this is the spot for drinks and conversation on the deck.  And if the weather isn't quite cooperating, then there are plenty of TV's for watching sports with your buddies.  All of which makes this a great place to pop-in when you hit the waterfront last minute.

Though known mostly for its pizza and burgers, Katie Downs has quite a bit more to offer.  Some of my personal "go-to's" are the BBQ chicken nachos, shrimp artichoke dip and the spicy prawns diablo.  Nonetheless, there are plenty of tantalizing items on the menu to stray from the favorites once in a while.  One such item is the prawns and chips that isn't common to most menus in the South Sound, but also one that, when beer battered and served with seasoned fries like Katie Downs, should certainly be on more menus around town.  One bite and you'll enjoy a generous helping of prawns that are crispy outside, juicy, moist inside, and then dipped in either cocktail or tartar sauce.

If you have somehow managed to live in Tacoma and never visited Katie Downs, check out the pizza selections first.  This is what Katie Downs has built a reputation with over the last 33 years, with both traditional Italian flavor combinations and NW selections.  You would be challenged to make a poor selection here and almost guarantee yourself a return trip.

Katie Downs' success is straight forward in its approach, offering favorites proven over time and perfected, without having to resort to gimmicks or daily specials; it simply relies on great food, drinks, a friendly staff and a huge deck available all summer long.

Katie Downs, 3211 Ruston Way, Tacoma, 253.756.0771

Anthony's at Pt. Defiance
There is no shortage of good seafood in the South Sound, but finding quality, fresh seafood at an affordable price is another story altogether.  Anthony's at Pt. Defiance in Tacoma offers a casual atmosphere with great seafood options next door to the ferry terminal and popular Owen's beach.  Complete with both a large number of view seating in addition to a summer deck, Anthony's is a fun spot for the whole family.

The seafood Mac and Cheese is more crab and shrimp than cheese — and that’s OK. Photo credit: Dutch Randall

In addition to the expected fillets of Puget Sound salmon, halibut, and other fresh selections - shellfish and chowders - Anthony's offers seasonal summer options unique to Anthony's.  Beginning with the seasonal drink specials, it offers fresh fruit creations in both adult and family lemonade concoctions.  I enjoyed the fresh berry lemonade in both the virgin and vodka versions, with just the right balance of sweet and tart.  Likewise, Anthony's extends the fresh fruit offerings to the dessert menu.  And I'm sure I'm understating the satisfaction I gained from the berry cobbler. And this week's seasonal offering is peach ... peach lemonade ... peach cobbler ...

But I'm getting ahead of myself -  before enjoying the desserts, you will certainly risk filling up on the main course.  One of the unique dishes offered at Anthony's is the seafood mac and cheese.  This is not your traditional mac and cheese as the flavor is driven by the fresh Dungeness crab and bay shrimp rather than the cheese.  The sauce is a rich and flavorful addition to the corkscrew pasta and seafood. So appealing in fact, that I recommend you save your bread until the end so that you have something to sop up every last drop.  That is, of course, if you still have the room, because Anthony's doesn't skimp on the portions.

Anthony's prices are reasonable with most dishes around $20, however, if you grab a bite during the lunch hours of 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., you will save a little coin without sacrificing atmosphere, flavor, or even quantity.  Plus, if you've spent the day beach combing at Owen's beach, there is no better way to spend your afternoon than on a deck with a great plate of seafood, satisfying summer lemonade, and a 280-degree view of the Puget Sound.

After just one visit to Anthony's at Pt. Defiance, you'll quickly discover why it has been a Tacoma favorite for years.

Anthony's at Pt. Defiance, 5910 North Waterfront Dr., Tacoma, 253.752.9700

Hometown Dogs
Not satisfied with the sub-par Chicago dog offerings in the Puget Sound, Debby Graham decided that with her close proximity to Joint Base Lewis-McChord, she most likely wasn't alone in her frustration.  And rather than settle for less, she did something about it.  She started her own business - Hometown Dogs, specializing in hot dog favorites from Chicago, Detroit and Atlanta to name a few.

Lakewood hot dog company uniquely run through Centerforce. Photo credit: Dutch Randall

Though generally anchored at the Centerforce campus in Lakewood, where she is an executive director for job training, as a food truck, Hometown Dogs can often be found at local events or farmers markets.  Debby stands behind her belief in the Centerforce mission by hiring trained employees directly from the Lakewood campus.

Since the original mission was to bring an authentic Chicago dog to the masses of the South Sound, I obviously had to go with the Chicago dog.  Hometown Dog's Chicago begins with a Vienna all beef hot dog on a poppy seed bun, and then it is all topped with mustard, fresh tomatoes, fresh onions, neon green relish, sport peppers, and just a dash of celery salt.  From the first bite you can taste the quality of the hotdog, and the freshness of the tomatoes and onions, as well as the sweet and spicy combo of the relish and peppers.  Hometown Dogs hits the Chicago on the head with an absolutely perfect balance of flavors and textures.

In addition to the Chicago, Hometown Dogs offers a simple hotdog menu with a local Seattle dog of cream cheese and jalapenos, the Detroit dog with chili, cheese and onions, the New York dog with hot sauerkraut, and the Atlanta dog that stars a topping of fresh, crisp cole slaw.  The beverage menu is just as basic with soda, water, coffee or hot chocolate.  If a tasty dog isn't enough to satisfy your appetite, then grab one of the affordable companions such as baked beans or potato salad.

Whatever your home town, you are sure to find a hot dog representative of your region, and I'm certain you won't be disappointed with its authenticity as Hometown Dogs puts as much care into every dog as it does with the original plan of a good Chicago dog.  Plus, the best part of Hometown Dogs is that as a mobile restaurant, it might just be where you are this weekend.  However, if you must find them, go to hometowndogs.com for their schedule.

Hometown Dogs, 5204 Solberg Drive SW, Lakewood, 253.584.1001

Go Philly
There are times when the day calls for a healthy meal, and then there are days when flavor will drive your decision. And when that day comes, hit up Go Philly on Tacoma Ave.  Whether it is the signature cheesesteak, chicken wings, or one of the many tasty side offerings ... who cares if you'll need bypass down the road.

Go Philly in Tacoma brings Cheez Whiz and more to the masses. Photo credit: Dutch Randall

Before ordering, I knew I was in the presence of a proper Philly when I saw Cheez Whiz on the menu.  In addition to the Original Cheesesteak served up with your choice of steak or chicken, grilled onions and your choice of melted provolone, American or the aforementioned Cheez Whiz, Go Philly also offers optional choices such as sweet and hot peppers on the Pepper Cheesesteak and mushrooms on the Mushroom Cheesesteak.  Or, you can completely abandon the traditional and go with a BBQ, Teriyaki, or even a Buffalo cheesesteak.

I'm more of a traditionalist and stuck with the steak and mushroom Philly, which they served quickly with an order of cheese fries and strawberry lemonade.  The Philly was piled with steak, grilled with onions and piping hot cheese all on a soft hoagie roll of just under a foot.  Absolutely the most satisfying gut bomb in Tacoma.  And the cheese fries were a great addition heaped with melted Cheez Whiz, all to be finished off with an ice cold lemonade loaded with sliced fresh strawberries.

In addition to cheesesteaks, Go Philly also has items you may not expect to see like fried okra, catfish or even wings.  But clearly, if not by restaurant title alone, the Philly drives the menu and the traffic.  There is also the option of steak and cheese right on an order of fries, if you find yourself so inclined.  So, come for the cheesesteaks, stay for anything else that catches your eye - you simply can't go wrong, just don't tell your cardiologist.

My only request for Go Philly?  Ditch the sporks and get some forks.  The cheese fries are messy enough without battling to get that deliciousness in my mouth.

Go Philly, 1402 Tacoma Ave. S., Tacoma, 253.572.3000

The Red Hot
The 6th Ave neighborhood in Tacoma has become a destination for breakfast each weekend, with lines at a handful of eateries up and down the Ave.  The Red Hot, already established for great brews and creative dogs, jumped onto the breakfast scene a few months ago and has added Sunday mornings to its creative side.

The root of a good pizza is cheese, sauce and crust and Paesan nails it. Photo credit: Dutch Randall

Along with offering breakfast once a week, The Red Hot has added Stumptown Nitro Brew iced coffee to its daily menu.  Imagine great Stumptown coffee, brewed cold and stored cold in kegs, then infused with nitrogen and run through the tap system.  Now you have yourself one of the best cups of coffee that will ever touch your lips!  If nitro coffee isn't your thing, give a red beer, or a grapefruit radler a try.

Even with Red Hot's limited breakfast menu of a half dozen choices, it may still be difficult to decide as each one is unique from anything else you will find around town.  The double French toast is stuffed with Nutella and topped with banana whipped cream. The hangover hash might be just what your body needs on Sunday morning.  And the chorizo scramble will absolutely satisfy your craving for a spicy breakfast.

I finally settled on the biscuit breakfast duo which promised both savory and sweet all on the same metal pie plate.  Two breakfast sandwiches, one with sausage, egg, cheese, bacon and spicy mayo; the other with candied bacon, marionberry jam, and banana whipped cream.  I ordered this for the novelty of the choice, but was pleasantly surprised at just how wonderful this dish turned out to be; a balance of savory and a sweet biscuit to finish, just as the waitress advertised.

With The Red Hot's evening popularity, a unique and creative breakfast menu, friendly staff, and currently no waiting for a seat at the breakfast table; it is soon to join the ranks of what I'm calling "Breakfast Ave" in Tacoma.  Get in now while you can, and I guarantee that you won't be disappointed.

The Red Hot, 2914 6th Avenue, 253.779.0229

Tacoma Cabana
Tacoma Cabana refers to its style as vacation fusion, and though located in downtown Tacoma right on Pacific Avenue, it makes you feel as if you truly are on vacation.  From the menu, the dark interior and bamboo everything, to the vacation-styled drink menu, it is an in-town escape from reality.  Bartender Jason Alexander's participation in last week's Tacoma Cocktail Mixoff should be enough evidence for you to try one of his concoctions.

Head to Tacoma Cabana for a tropical vacation fusion of flavors. Photo credit: Dutch Randall

The vacation fusion menu is truly driven by its selection of appetizers designed to be shared.  The pineapple BBQ pork sliders are unique to any other slider you may find in town, and add the meatball skewer, the Tiki platter filled with tropical fruit, macadamia nuts and dipping chocolate, or my favorite  - the bacon wrapped pineapple, I couldn't find a bad appetizer on the entire menu.  

Combine your appetizer, one of the classic vacation drinks, and add ten friends, and you will be in the vacation mindset that Tacoma Cabana advertises.  Help yourself to one of the grogs available, a Mai Tai, or even a Chi Chi if you find yourself so inclined.  I went full tourist and tried the Polynesian Paralysis, which is a combination of pineapple and orange juice mixed with bourbon.  Be warned, when the menu states "served very tall", it doesn't mean the standard tall bar class, Tacoma Cabana means a foot tall bamboo cup.  But, remember people, we are on island time!

The dinner menu, though much more limited than the appetizer and drink menus, still has some great options. Jerk marinated chicken or curry and coconut flavors drive the dinner menu, but the Kona Coffee rubbed steak caught my eye, and at only $18, is the most expensive item on the menu.  All the flavors on the plate, from the rice, to the grilled vegetables, work perfectly with the bold coffee and earthy tones of the steak.  I've eaten a lot of steak in my day, but few that matched so well with everything else on the menu.

When you are in need of a "staycation" right here in town, grab your friends and drive downtown.  I have no doubt that you will all be caught up in the vacation mindset that the Tacoma Cabana strives to deliver.  Order some appetizers, have a few drinks, maybe even a meal or dessert, but you will definitely enjoy yourself, and at least for the time being, forget that you're still in Tacoma.

Tacoma Cabana, 728 Pacific Ave., 253.222.4184

Hanks Bar and Grill
Located on the corner of North 6th and K streets, Hanks Bar and Grill (formerly The Corner Bar) serves up some of the best pizza, beers and appetizers in Tacoma.  What once was simply a neighborhood dive bar for the North Slope residents, is quickly becoming one of the best known bars off the beaten paths of Tacoma's bar scene.

North slope restaurants have something special within their community — Hanks. Photo credit: Dutch Randall

One of the draws, which many regulars were hesitant to embrace, is both the new name and a complete remodel inside, last winter.  Gone are the shabby, dirty walls and in are the warm mahogany walls and ceilings formerly gracing the E.R. Rogers mansion in Steilacoom.  Having worked at E.R. Rogers restaurant in the 1980's, I was personally excited to see Hanks preserving this piece of South Sound history.  Hanks, however, placed its own local spin to the remodel by displaying shelves and shelves of old beer cans to maintain the local "dive" feel.

As popular as the homemade pizzas and pretzels are to Hanks' regulars, don't avoid the rest of the menu; there are some amazing sandwiches and pasta on the menu as well.  The Buffalo chicken and pesto chicken sandwiches are certainly worth a try, but I couldn't resist the meatball sub on my visit.  The house-made meatballs on top of a house-made hoagie and smothered in marinara sauce and mozzarella was exactly what I was hoping it would be. The staff told me the meatballs would be a little spicy - and they were right - and it was just enough spice to separate Hanks' sub from all the other meatball subs around town.  Add the soft, warm, fresh bread, and this sandwich is hard to put down.

In addition to a wide open floor plan with plenty of seating in the booths or at a table in the middle, the bar is very accessible and the focal point of Hanks' remodel, making it easy for the staff to see the whole place.  There is also a single pool table off to the side that helps to maintain the small town feel that made The Corner Bar so popular.  And in the heat of the summer, there is a small patio on North K Street where you can soak in the rays and watch the traffic go by.

Show up on Taco Tuesdays, any evening from 7-10 p.m. for happy hour, or just anytime you want to soak up the sun at a fantastic neighborhood bar away from all the rest, and you will not be disappointed.  Great food, a friendly casual staff, and a beautiful remodel, will certainly keep Hanks in business for a long while.

Hanks Bar and Grill, 524 North K St., 253.627.3480

The Beach at Titlow
Established just after the end of prohibition in 1934, The Beach at Titlow in Tacoma has flourished for over 80 years in part because of the Narrows Bridge view, but also because of the home-style food it serves up daily.  Like many of the taverns across town, The Beach serves up chicken strips, jo jos, fried mushrooms and chicken wings.  What sets it aside however, is that none of the standard pub food offerings are considered signature dishes, nor are they what brings customers back time after time.

You can’t go wrong with good tavern food, such as that served daily at The Beach in Tacoma. Photo credit: Dutch Randall

Follow 6th Ave. Eastbound until it ends, and there you will find yourself directly in front of The Beach.  Though the spectacular views of the Narrows Bridge is certain to draw people to its doors, the food is what will bring them back.  Don't let the "diveish" interior deter you from what has worked for over 80 years in business - The Beach is much more than the tavern it appears to be.  Once you look beyond the standard pub fare offerings, you will see what makes The Beach unique, with options such as house-made meatloaf, turkey and gravy, a large selection of sandwiches, and a simple burger selection that has been described as "to die for" by many Tacoma locals.

Anything that is on the menu twice is something I've got to try.  And The Beach's meatloaf is available two ways; as a hot plate with mashed potatoes and gravy, or as a cold sandwich with chips. Being summer, I went with the cold sandwich and chips to accompany a cold Hefeweizen from the tap.  It was clear, even in its cold state, why the meatloaf is popular here.  It was a dense slice of just the right spice between two sourdough pieces and garnished with lettuce, mayo, and a fresh tomato slice.  I will definitely be back this fall to try the hot meatloaf dish, which is guaranteed to satisfy on a cold windy evening.    

Whether you come for the view or the food, you will be sure to return once you discover why The Beach at Titlow has stood the test of time.

The Beach at Titlow Bar and Grill, Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m. to 2 a.m., Sunday noon to midnight, 8612 6th Ave., Tacoma, 253.564.9984

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