Oh Canada

British Columbia is teeming with cool adventures

By Ken Swarner on April 27, 2017

It will be a shame if you don't explore British Columbia while you are living here in the Northwest, because while similar in some ways to the greater Pacific Northwest and United States as a whole, there are many unique opportunities a minimum of three hours away that you can't find elsewhere in the region.  From the kitschy feel of Old English styles in Victoria to the ultra-modern, cosmopolitan vibe in Vancouver, and from the amazing wildlife adventures on Vancouver Island to the gastronomical opportunities that await everywhere, BC will blow you away.

GETTING THERE

First and foremost, U.S. citizens travelling to Canada need a passport or an enhanced driver's license to make things go faster, however, other proofs of citizenship such as a birth certificate will work.  For complete information, go to ezbordercrossing.com/the-inspection-experience/documentation-needed-to-cross-border/types-of-documentation.

Once the documents are right, then you have a few choices on how you'd like to travel.  Many people drive.  From the South Sound, it takes roughly two-and-a-half hours to get to the border at Blaine by car, if you want to go to the mainland portion of BC. From there, it is another 30 minutes to get into Vancouver.  There are alternate crossings - a truck crossing just a couple miles east and another further east near Lynden (both can be seen via Google Maps).  These alternative crossings are sometimes faster.  Wait times at the Blaine crossing can take up to an hour.

Another route into Vancouver is Amtrak - with stations in both Lacey and Tacoma.  You don't save much time getting there, however, you do save an enormous amount of time potentially if the border is slow.  The train waits for no one.  It is also a nice ride along the water.  Amtrak fares from Lacey to Vancouver are roughly $57 one-way for their value fare (but remember you'll need a cab or Uber once in Vancouver since you won't have a car).  And if you plan to fully embrace the greater Vancouver area, you'll need significant transportation.  If you just want to shop and eat, you can walk a lot of the city (if you are in reasonable shape).

To cross over to Vancouver Island (also part of BC, and I'll make a case in this article why you must go there, too) you will need a ferry.  You can cross through BC just south of Vancouver at Twassen, which drops you roughly 40 minutes north of downtown Victoria, take the foot passenger-only Clipper from downtown Seattle, or you can drive to Port Angeles on the U.S. side and ferry directly into downtown Victoria.  For info on the BC Ferries, go here: bcferries.com.  BC Ferries are nice, and they have a lot more crossing times.  The cost is also cheaper at around $72 for a car and passenger one-way (plus they have hotel packages).

A new passenger-only ferry is opening next month as well, see details on page 19. The Clipper is fastest, and a lot closer to Joint Base Lewis-McChord. Clipper costs start at $149 per person round trip in the summer, but check out their hotel packages for savings, and watch for military and kids fare specials, too.  They are at clippervacations.com.  For Port Angeles, the Black Ball Ferry is the only choice, with a morning and afternoon sail both ways.  Info is here: cohoferry.com.  A car and driver is roughly $82 one-way on the Black Ball, but check out their website because they also have some decent packages with Victoria hotels.

There is one more option to Victoria from Seattle - a seaplane.  Kenmore Air will fly you there from Seattle starting around $165 one-way.

Hundreds of jellyfish dance inside their tank at the Vancouver Aquarium in Vancouver’s Stanley Park. Photo credit: Ken Swarner
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VANCOUVER

If you have limited time or just want to shop and eat, then staying in downtown Vancouver and planning to walk or Uber is your best bet. But, it does come with some sticker shock.  Vancouver is not cheap to stay, unless you do your homework and look for deals.  Currently, a three-star hotel in the city runs $150 to $200 per night (U.S. funds) for a Saturday in July.  You can save some money staying 20 minutes out of the city in one of the surrounding communities, and driving or taking the transit train into downtown.  I like staying in Burnby at Metro Town.  There is a big mall there, lots of local restaurants and a train that goes into the city.  There are more options there under $200.  You can also stay cheaper at the airport and also take transit into Vancouver - those hotels are under $150 in many cases.  Check rates at sites like Expedia.com, and remember, the U.S. dollar is stronger in Canada, so the exchange rate is in your benefit.

So why Vancouver?  It is more cosmopolitan than anywhere else on the West Coast. This city's ties to Europe and Britain are strong, as is the influence in Asian cuisine and experiences.  Then, interwoven through all of that is a Northwest, wild west culture that includes both First People's and environmental activisim.  Being in Vancouver is like Seattle and San Francisco on steroids.

What's cool in Vancouver?

From vintage to high (see expensive) fashion, both Vancouver and Victoria have area’s dedicated to shopping with big influences coming from Europe. Photo credit: Ken Swarner
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Want to expand your horizons?  Eat in the dark at Dark Table.  You are ushered to your table by a blind server, and literally, you won't see the light of day until you are ushered back outside.  It is an unforgettable experience - slightly oppressive the first five or so minutes, but quickly becomes quirky, fun and adventurous (darktable.ca).
Finally, make a stop at The Beach House in west Vancouver (thebeachhouserestaurant.ca), a place that treats fish right, bringing out the mild flavors of the sea with Asian nuances including their North Pacific Sablefish with unagi maple glaze, soba noodles, spinach, shiitake mushrooms and dashi broth.

VICTORIA

It's a tale of two cities, really.  Vancouver is modern, while Victoria unabashedly promotes an old British Empire feel with horse drawn carriages, double-decker buses, tea houses and British imports and souvenirs.  But, even if you hate the Brits, there is a lot more to love about Victoria.

The Dr. Sun-Yat Classical Chinese gardens are a happy place for garden enthusiasts or anyone wishing to feel the serenity of nature in the heart of a major city. Photo credit: Ken Swarner

WILDLIFE

I give wildlife it's own category because getting close to nature is one of British Columbia's greatest treasures.  From the caged to the free, animal enthusiasts will find a lot of reasons to go north.  Here are several of my favorites:

GARDENS

Gardens are like the animals, deserving of their own mentions.  British Columbia is teeming with plants - from the famous Butchart Gardens to lesser known Chinese and Japanese types, garden enthusiasts are going to love Canada.  Here are some reasons:

THE REST OF BC

I can't leave a discussion of British Columbia without recognizing that most of this discussion focuses on the lower 10 percent of the area.  There are vast forests and fishing communities, hot springs, skiing, hiking and more in the less populated areas.  Several highlights include:

I hope I've made the case for BC, and maybe you'll have more than one opportunity to explore this fantastic Canadian province before you PCS.