The Tacoma Cabana, nestled in Tacoma’s hip lower Pacific Avenue, offers a waggish combination of strategic lighting, dangling blowfish, bamboo, Hawaiian textiles and just enough kitschy accents to conjure up a live rendition of “Tiny Bubbles” and scream for a Mai Tai — three styles at the Cabana. It dances with Polynesian decor, from tropical tackiness to authentic Hawaiian artifacts — including a bar rigged to resemble a hut, and sports a 600-pound stuffed marlin mounted to the wall and Gilligan’s Island re-runs.

Owners Robyn Murphy and Jason Alexanderare about hospitality. Murphy leads the kitchen, offering “vacation fusion” dishes from Hawaii, Caribbean, South Pacific, Thai and the Philippines, including huge sweet-sour meatballs and a bacon-wrapped pineapple rumaki that bursts with flavor. Alexander, armed with recipes from Trader Vic’s and Don the Beachcomber and his trusty fez, pours scratch tropical craft concoctions incorporating his own ideas, infusions and syrups.