Beau Legs Fish ‘N’ Chips

Where: 8765 Tallon Lane, Lacey, 360.915.6328
Hours: Monday-Saturday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Cuisine: Southern/Creole deli fare
Scene: Casual order-at-the-counter family friendly
Drinkies: Non-alcoholic fountain drinks
Damage:  $2.99-$13.95

ANNOUNCER:  Slightly off the main drag of Martin Way in Lacey, a Southern/Creole inspired casual order-at-the-counter dining spot has opened in a spankin’ new retail center. Beau Legs Fish ‘N’ Chips still has a new restaurant gleam, thanks to the shiny linoleum floors and glossy royal blue padded booths. Sparse decoration, a lone flat screen television, and widely spaced seating provide a clean feel to the high-ceilinged space. An enormous curtain separates the public dining area from the kitchen.

JAKE: Initially filled with leftovers, gravy and end cuts for striking workers in 1929, the ‘poor boy’ sandwich came into being on St. Claude Avenue in New Orleans. The sandwich is also popular stuffed with oysters on fat buttered baguettes. Beau Legs’ ‘po boi’ is stuffed with shrimp served on a light and airy roll with flaky crust. Mmmmm, flaky crust. If only there was ice-cold sweet tea to wash it down with. Had to make due with soda from the fountain drink station.

JASON: The small wing order consists of six large hot wings, fries and celery for $4.99 -and that is a price I like. Unlike most restaurants, Beau Legs’ wings retain the actual wing tip section, and though there really isn’t anything but tasty crisp skin to them, they make a fine presentation. Vibrant orangey-red wing sauce gave the moist chicken flesh a healthy kick minus painful burn; vinegar and cayenne play nice. After mouthfuls of spicy food I need a breather, a respite, a white flag to wave if you will — and celery just doesn’t do it. Hush puppies, those round deep-fried corn batter beauties, provided this at Beau Legs and are crucial to the joy of my Cajun food experience. I dig them dipped in tartar. Word of warning, break them open to cool a bit or suffer a burned lip courtesy of hot oil.

JAKE: You dig everything dipped in tartar, including your finger.

JASON: Oh, you saw that? It’s like that Beastie Boys song — “Finger Lickin’ Good.” Beau Legs makes its own tartar. It was tangy with just the right pickle bite, and yeah, I’m good with eating it straight. The consistency was ideal for me, not too thick and not runny.

JAKE: A paper-lined red plastic basket filled with freshly battered puffy halibut, cornmeal-coated catfish and cod, two large prawns, and 4-inch crispy clam strips make the Captain’s Platter your wallet’s best friend at $13.95. No matter where you get catfish, it always has that muddy taste, hence the standard hot sauce sluice and tartar smear. Lightly crisp and tossed with salt, fresh cut fried potatoes made for some mean fries. Sadly, the coleslaw was beyond bland. And by bland, I mean sorrowfully and heartbreakingly bland.

JASON: I know. I had to comfort myself by dunking fries in chowder. I’ll skip the crackers, man. The moderately thick chowder was creamy and rich, mildly salty, and had more buttery clam bits than soft potatoes, which is a plus. After all it’s not potato chowder. Another big plus was the mighty meaty gumbo. Every spoonful had chunks of sausage or chicken in it. Though the description on the menu board called for the gumbo to be served over rice, it came in a Styrofoam bowl and the rice seemed to be mixed in. I must mention that everything was served in plastic, Styrofoam or paper — which will no doubt make landfill fans happy. Mother Nature, not so much.

JAKE: Tree hugger.

JASON: Republican.

JAKE: Touché!