Sumay Indian Cuisine

Where: 12623 E. Meridian Ave., Puyallup, 253.770.6276, www.sumaycuisine.com
Hours: Monday-Thursday 11: 30 a.m. to 9: 30 p.m., Friday 11: 30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday noon to 10 p.m., Sunday noon to 9 p.m
Cuisine: North Indian influenced by Mughal and Punjabi cooking styles
Scene: Casual mid-class, family friendly dining
Drinkies: Traditional Indian beverages, soft drinks, teas, coffee. No Alcohol served.
Damage:  $2.95-$17.95

ANNOUNCER: Yet another ethnic restaurant gem can be found in one of the many Puyallup strip mall pockets lining East Meridian Avenue in South Hill. The non-descript facade of the family-owned and operated business gives way to a surprisingly classy and up-to-date interior. Offering fine Indian cuisine with a decided focus on the country’s northern state of Punjab, Sumay Indian Cuisine can be described as a cozy restaurant the same way real estate agents refer to tiny apartments as quaint. Although the dining area is limited, it’s used well; white cloth covered tables are comfortably spaced on both sides of the wide aisle. With the tables butted against the walls, a sense of intimacy remains even in semi-close quarters. A mirror covers most of one wall creating an illusion of a larger room reflecting soft amber lighting and candle flicker. A mounted flat screen television features never-ending Bollywood movies complete with bare midriffs, elaborate sets and costumes and, of course, precisely choreographed dancing and singing. Let’s see if the boys think the food is worthy.

JASON: Say it loud and say it proud; a lamb lover am I. Opening the menu I spied eight different lamb dishes. Hello, heaven? I’m fine right here. Lamb could be done creamy korma style, in spiced curry, Southwestern India vindaloo, or in spinach and mustard leaf saag, with mango or mushrooms, or in a thick peppery jalfrezi sauce. Wow. One of each, please.

JAKE: I agree. Serious choices abound at Sumay. On the opposite spectrum of your carnivorous lamb fixation, the number of vegetarian dishes is impressive. Just as the different geographical regions of the United States denote food preferences, product availability and preparation styles, India also enjoys its own rich variety. The menu has seven appetizers, soups, salads, rices, stuffed breads and a whopping 17 entrees that contain not one iota of animal flesh. And even after all that you still want lamb?

JASON: Yes, please. Give me a little bah bah. The menu also has a ton of stuffed breads; more than I’ve ever seen elsewhere; it’s a bread lover’s paradise. The keema naan was excellent containing minced lamb and onion baked inside. The spice level was enough to make the inside of my mouth and the skin around my lips feel blistered, though. Repeat sips of sweet mango lassi, a popular Indian drink of whipped buttermilk, sure helped.

JAKE: And you looked great with yellowish cream on your face, too. Mint and cilantro chutney really complimented the naan, and I agree it was a bit on the stupidly hot side. I have a love of paneer cheese and was not disappointed by my choice. Pasanda is a creamy dish that has more than 20 ingredients. As I rolled the sauce over my tongue, I’d tried picking some of them out — ginger, clove, coriander, onion. The paneer squares were nice and smooshy. I thought it odd that the waiter set our dishes down and just walked away without even asking if we wanted any rice or saying anything. I get it that rice isn’t super common in parts of India, but come on — a little communication, please, I need my friggin’ basmati. I slurped an eye-popping lemon ginger drink while waiting. That drink was lemonade on steroids with ground ginger and carbonation. Zing!

JASON: Yeah, it was weird having to wait for him to come back to ask for rice and on both visits. First time in, I was dying to have lamb korma, a rich lamb dish marinated in subtly sweet yogurt and cooked with tangy golden raisins —  this flavor really shone — until tender. Cashews add texture complexity and as with most Punjabi dishes, flavors are multi-layered and lingering. Pretty much any dish can also be done with chicken, shrimp or sans meat. Second go-round, we’d just missed the all-you-can-eat seven-days-a-week lunch buffet, so I settled for lamb saag and was not sorry. A gingery, thick spiced spinach cream sauce, the saag beat the korma. I ate way too much and loved it, so it feels A-holey to say that lunch prices should be cheaper than dinner prices. It definitely seemed like a smaller portion in the afternoon versus 8 p.m. And we were charged for the rice.

JAKE: Galub jamun dessert was interesting. I don’t think I’ll have it again.

JASON: You’re awfully kind, whereas I am just blunt. Of the four desserts offered we picked the round, soggy, deep-fried donut dough globs that were soaked in a thin sugary syrup. We passed up kulfi ice cream with pistachios, fresh mango ice cream, and the always good rice pudding, such a regrettable decision.