Sea Grill is an airy room with floor to ceiling windows all around and a clear view straight into the kitchen. The inviting look of the restaurant is mirrored by the staff.
“Are we celebrating anything this evening?” general manager Mike Neumann warmly asks of a couple he’s just seated. Neumann wants everyone’s evening to be memorable and as perfect as possible.
Dining at Sea Grill in the month of March ensures one will have just such an experience. March heralds in the Royal Order of the Flying Crustaceans — lovingly called the Cult of the Crab — a month-long celebration of crustaceans and an exploration of their versatility in dining.
A singularly special crab-focused menu designed by Executive Chef Matt Brandsey showcases eight types of crab in 11 wholly different dishes.
“I wanted to go lighter this year. I took previous years’ dishes and added to the recipes,” shares a smiling Brandsey. He and general manager Neumann painstakingly selected wines to compliment the Cult menu.
Beginning our six-course dinner with Dungeness and Jonah crab cocktail, we were impressed with the chilled jumbo pieces of crab (this was a running theme for all the dishes we later observed) and the West Indian cocktail sauce — cayenne and cilantro marched straight to the spice loving part of my brain and started to party.
The second course of Peekytoe crab salad is a prime example of Brandsey modifying recipes. He took existing ingredients of mixed greens and delicately sweet Maine Blue crab with tangy, creamy scallion dressing and soft avocado, and added crunchy hearts of palm, bold blood oranges and tart blood orange reduction drizzle.
Third course was visually surprising. Instead of the typical two or three ravioli, one 4-inch square raviolo sat solo in a bath of golden lemon burre blanc. Dungeness crab and basil stuffed the raviolo’s center pouch, and a finely minced and blended dollop of baby arugula and white balsamic vinegar and orange reduction rested on top.
Usually not a fan of the red cioppino, I quickly changed my mind if for this one version only. Served with a garlicky warm crostini, this fourth course had a zing of spice blend borrowed from Sea Grill’s Wicked Shrimp appetizer, and copious amounts of crab accented by onion and tomato chunks.
Risotto can be tricky to prepare and I was mildly put off when the dish, which appeared overly saucy, was set before me. Fifth course disappointment quickly turned to delight. Lemon burre blanc had been ladled under the black truffle speckled risotto, seeping up at the edges and giving merely the illusion of too much liquid. We loved the al dente bites of asparagus. Fried leek topping added a needed contrasting salty crunch to the soft mascarpone cheese cloud of risotto and crab.
The final course was dramatic in presentation. Almond crusted Maryland soft shell crabs had been rent asunder, the halves sat on end in a tangy truffle aioli slick with curled crab legs pointed heavenward. A squeeze of lemon took the flavor dial to 11. Lightly charred white asparagus mingled with its more pungent green sibling.
Throughout this dinner of surprises and contrasts, the staff’s professional attention was courteous, timely, and non-intrusive.
Our last surprise was a sweet one. A hefty chunk of decadent chocolate ganache sat center to a swirling pool of chocolate and caramel sauce, with a fish-shaped chocolate cookie riding a fluffy wave of crème fraiche — a perfect ending to a very memorable meal.
[Sea Grill, 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 4-9 p.m. Sunday, 1498 Pacific Avenue, Tacoma, 253.272.5656]