ANNOUNCER: Every once in awhile the boys visit an old friend — a restaurant that has transcended time and novelty to stay true to its original mission. After a long separation, they returned to Tumwater to spend time with the Falls Terrace — the last bastion in the South Sound where sole almandine is still on the menu. A spot one is assured that food trends have not touched, but instead a place still serving the traditions of Sunday supper.

JASON: While the food is good, the draw remains the falls that gave the place its name. Perched on an overlook, the restaurant’s wall of windows has front row seats overlooking the Tumwater/Deschutes River Falls with the old Olympia Brewery in the back and Tumwater Falls Park to the side. The falls are wide and low but create a dramatic froth of water in a few locations making for a constant symphony of beauty and power. During the day the view impresses out of town guests as well as regulars who never tire of seeing raw power. At night, floodlights keep the drama alive and make for a special night on the town.

JAKE: I guess you like the falls. I do too, but I also like that the Falls Terrace has seating up close to the windows. The restaurant is long and thin with front row seating and then a second tier of seating that looks up and over the first row. There’s literally not a bad seat in the house. In the lounge the seating is even closer to the action as the building on that end extends a little beyond the dining room. It doesn’t cut off the view but does offer diners a more intimate space with the falls. After your meal there are also walking trails that leave from the park next door allowing you to work off your meal and get even closer to the Deschutes River. In fact, if you have time you can take the walk all the way down the river close to Capital Lake.

JASON: Parking is on a busy street across from the restaurant. Reservations are recommended because the restaurant fills up quickly even on weekday evenings. Dress as you please, the place accommodates all walks of life — there don’t appear to be any pretensions. The menu is fairly robust with an early bird menu, lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch and more. For dinner, I started with the batter-dipped avocado (OK, some things are trendy), which arrived with a Gorgonzola dipping sauce. Decadent and fattening, I liked the combo of salty and sweet, but I wouldn’t make a regular habit of it. Afterward I dived into the pork chops, which were prepared moist and grilled dark brown. The baked potato was large and the fixings plentiful.

JAKE: I haven’t had sole Amandine for years — it fell off most menus during the Carter administration. The Falls prepares a nice flaky and meaty sole, which is lightly floured and grilled and topped with shaved almonds. I see why earlier generations who practiced portion control and ate lighter than we do now liked this menu item — I had plenty of room for dessert.

JASON: Other notable menu items include the Steak Terrace, another decadent topping of crab and shrimp meat with asparagus spears on top of a filet mignon and covered in Hollandaise sauce — a heart killer but smooth and sweet.

JAKE: The desserts didn’t impress me, however. They had a factory taste that didn’t cap the evening as I hoped.

Falls Terrace

106 Deschutes Way. 360.943.7830.

Hours: Mon-Thur, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Fri. 11 a.m. to 9 pm. Sat. 11:30 a.m. to 9 pm. Sun – 11:30 a.m. to 8 pm.

Scene: It’s all about the waterfalls and the room that is set up like a movie theater. This is the place to impress out of town guests.

Drinkies: Full bar – uninspired wine list.

Cuisine: Old traditional favorites of a bygone era plus a few twists and trendy turns.

Menu:

• Early Bird Salmon dinner - $13.99
• Pan seared oysters - $10.99
• Chicken Cordon Bleu - $18.99
• 12 oz Prime Rib - $23.99