ANNOUNCER: If you haven’t driven in Northeast Tacoma for a while, the growth of homes may amaze you — one subdivision after the other. Unfortunately, worthy restaurants haven’t followed the same pattern. The Cliff House and Lobster Shop still produce excellent food, but they were rooted long before the section of hilltop connecting the Port of Tacoma to Federal Way rose in population. With that aside, the boys have found solace in a tiny Mediterranean grill off Hoyt Road called the Shish Kabab.

JASON: I just like saying the word shish kabab. Shish kabab. It reminds me of being a little kid learning that word for the first time. It sounds funny.

JAKE: You’re weird.

JASON: The Shish Kabab reminds me of a Taco Del Mar. They’ve taken Mediterranean specialties, compiled them into takeout and counter-service meals, and designed an interior that feels like an upscale fast food joint. What Taco Del Mar did for the fish taco, Shish Kabab does for falafel. No disrespect, though — the concept works. I feel I will be served quickly and efficiently, and at the same time, the food will be fresher than a fast food joint — even though there are no fast food kabab places.

JAKE: I agree. Located in a strip mall with a Garlic Jims next door, this restaurant has a clean interior with both booths and tables. You order at the counter from a fairly extensive menu, then sit and wait for the staff to bring your meal. On every visit I found the staff helpful and patient. They know their ingredients and they are able to explain those menu items that appear foreign even to some foodies.

JASON: My first meal at the Shish Kabab wasn’t a kabab — I ordered the falafel plate, a generous portion of little fried cannon balls made from spicy garbanzo beans — a popular appetizer or snack in the Middle East. Firm, crisp and aromatic — a tasty version, though I’m not sure I’ve had a bad one to compare. Read: fish stick — most of them taste the same. I suppose you could burn one or fry it into something barely recognizable. Regardless, their falafel pays off arriving on a bed of lettuce with mint and tahini dipping sauces.

JAKE: I did the Kafta Kabab, which translates to a burger on a stick. Think meatloaf but denser. They take ground beef and mix with onions, garlic, parsley and spices then grill on a stick. Not dry as some meat loaf can be — more like gyro meat, juicy and savory. You may also choose a dipping sauce. I scored with the yogurt. The side of tabbouleh — a refreshing rendition of the classic salad — combines bulgur, finely chopped parsley, mint, tomato and scallion, lemon juice, olive oil and seasonings. Perfect for a picnic on a hot day — the cold ingredients, crispness of fresh vegetables and spices, and lemon juice work to cool off the body nicely.

JASON: The beef Shawarma met my fancy as well. Slices of (fairly) decent beef (comes in chicken too) are marinated in Mediterranean 13 Spices Shawarma Mix, seared and served with salad, rice and pita bread. I’m not sure what 13 spices they use, but likely their mix includes cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, allspice, garlic, and cardamom. The flavor balanced well — the meat was a little chewy, but all in all, hearty, and the portion size larger than I could finish.

JAKE: A great quick lunch or dinner spot, the Shish Kabab may be too far to make the trip worth it from the southern South Sound, but for those within a quick drive, you won’t mind the effort. And take home some pistachio baklava — sweet and chewy the way it should be.

Shish Kabab Mediterranean Grille

34024 Hoyt Road SW, Federal Way. 253.835.3444
Hours: Mon, noon-9 p.m., closed Tues, Wed-Sat, noon-9 p.m., Sun, noon to 8 p.m.
Scene: Simple, clean, reminds us of a Taco Del Mar minus the fish nets.
Cuisine: Cuisine from the Middle East and North Africa with an emphasis on shish kababs and grilled meats and vegetables.
Drinkies: Limited beer and wine, soft drinks and bottled water.

Menu

Fattoush >> $3.25
Falafel Sandwich >> $5.75
Pork Shish Kabab >> $14
Baklava >> $2.25