ANNOUNCER: The history of eating fine food and drink in Steilacoom dates back decades as local residents and visitors enjoyed the sweeping panorama of the South Puget Sound waters while dining at E.R. Rogers. When that legacy ended in 2005 (the mansion is transitioning into a law firm), so did excellent food in the state’s oldest incorporated city.



Steilacoom has a few restaurants and taverns resting on its hillside. And while they are great places to meet people, enjoy the somewhat sleepy environs and find refreshment, the food quality is just so-so. Enter Jakes Bar & Bistro — the newest addition to the culinary scene in Steilacoom. Has it brought new life to dining?

 

JASON: Jakes brought great beers and fun to Steilacoom — but stick to the basic pub grub and you won’t be disappointed. The restaurant sits on the second story of the new downtown office complex at the corner of Wiles and Lafayette. The interior is light woods, heavy tables and hard surfaces — perfect for giving off a sense of coolness on a hot day. Perched up, the place offers nice views of the Sound, and a large deck currently under construction will make this place a magnet for those wanting an outside seascape closer than driving to Ruston Way.



JAKE: That deck will transform Steilacoom. Deck space overlooking the Sound doesn’t exist between Anthony’s in Olympia and Steamers in Tacoma … unless you take a train ride or grab peeks while leaning around the railing at the Steilacoom Pub. A deck in Steilacoom brings the water close to those in the Lakewood to Dupont corridor currently without a water view.



JASON: The list of microbrews at Jakes is staggering. Roughly 40 beers, almost all small breweries (you won’t find Red Hook or Widmer — Anchor Steam is the closest to a typical micro available at other places) grace the menu — hoppy delicacies like Laughing Buddha Pandan Brown Ale and Avery Czar Imperial Stout give customers not only excellent refreshment but an opportunity to try things it takes a lot of effort otherwise to find and pop open. The staff is somewhat familiar with the brands (sometimes it takes two people to help a customer match personal tastes with the right brew), but the experience of tracking down new favorites never gets old.



JAKE: Did I mention I love the name of this place?



JASON: Shut up.



JAKE: The service appears to be Jakes’ greatest hang-up. It’s not that anyone is rude or completely ill equipped to handle the job, but they also aren’t quick with anything, including at times, a smile. They understand it is their job to bring customers what they order, but they haven’t grasped the concept that attentiveness and holding back judgment are as important as quality food.



JASON: Speaking of, the food doesn’t quite warrant the name “Bistro.” Jakes makes some excellent pub grub, but bistro? When I order an $18 rib eye I expect to at least get a cut that isn’t 50 percent fat and gristle. Ten percent, maybe — but the steak I received at Jakes was only half edible. Certainly the cook saw the bulging blubber protruding out the side of the meat. I pared it off immediately and left it for the dishwasher to admire later. I liked the NW BLT — lots of thick, juicy bacon and fairly fresh tomato.



JAKE: I thought about the seared scallop salad, but then remembered I was in a beer joint — I never would have gone for a rib eye there. Instead, I adored the Johnsonville Bratwurst. It reminded me of tailgating — in fact, next football game, I am doing takeout. The brat is cooked in a medley of tap beers, sliced lengthwise and placed on a chewy hoagie roll (the best part). They add a squeeze of stone ground mustard and a layer of sauerkraut — magnificent.



JASON: Beer and a brat — and soon, on a deck. Steilacoom, welcome back to our world.

MENU

• Southwest Quesadilla >> $8


• Nachos >> $11


• The Rogue Salad >> $10


• Bacon Ceddar Burger >> $10


• Beef Tenderloin Stroganoff >> $16


• Garlic Basil Salmon >> $16


• Seafood Fettuccini >> $17


• Beer Marinated Rib-Eye >> $18

Jakes

Where: 215 Wilkes St., Steilacoom. 253.581,3300.

Hours: Mon-Thurs 11-11 p.m.; Fri-Sat 11-midnight, Sun 11-10 p.m.

Cuisine: Stick to the pub grub and you won’t be disappointed — we adored the brats and liked many of the other items.

Scene: Nice wood work, slightly cold in the winter, but a soon-to-open deck promises

to re-enliven the town.

Drinkies: Can you say 40+ beers on tap most of them you have never heard of before?