ANNOUNCER: The Crown Bar in Tacoma channels cosmically in a certain sense the revelry occurring thousands of miles across the sea at the Crown Liquor Saloon in Belfast, Northern Ireland. Tacoma’s chef pioneer Charlie McManus, who has captained Primo Grill for nearly a decade, opened the Sixth Avenue spot last year choosing to honor his hometown and his love of great bars by naming his place after the Belfast icon. Built in 1885 with Catholic accents that may or may not have (who’s saying?) snubbed its nose at London across the way, Belfast’s Crown finds itself today owned by the National Trust as possibly the greatest of the Victorian Gin Palaces — but, as evidenced by the bar’s Web cam (www.crownbar.com/ webcam.asp), is still serving thirsty Belfasters today. Where Belfast’s Crown featured a tile crown inlaid on the tile entryway (could it be those late 19th Century hooligans purposely put the Royal Family’s iconic headwear on the floor for folks to trod across on their way to get a Guinness?), McManus’ Crown Bar has local artist James Hume’s painting of Steve McQueen wearing a crown hanging above the fireplace. McQueen represents McManus’ love of motorcycles, and the menu highlights his love of travel. For the rest of us, it’s not about Ireland, bikes or anything else — the Crown Bar on Sixth Avenue satiates us.



JASON: I spent an afternoon studying the Irish throwing back beers in the Belfast Crown Liquor Saloon. A split screen on the Web site anchors Google Map’s satellite image of Victoria Street where the Crown stands. My afternoon was educational in two ways: 1. McManus’s Crown Bar features the same deep woods and thick, heavy furniture, albeit on a smaller scale, and 2. I have too much free time.



JAKE: Next time you have free time, pull up the corner high-back chair at Crown’s bar. Dino is the guy behind the bar, a man who knows that a great bartender doesn’t say too much, but makes you feel like that IPA you’re swilling is the most cherished brew on the planet. Maintaining that aura of mystery that keeps people coming back, he reveals his old-fashioned charm while listing the traits he thinks a good bartender needs: “efficiency, courtesy, cleanliness.” He clearly takes his profession seriously, because he demonstrates all three, but he also knows the history of every ingredient he pours in a glass or cup, knows what works together and what doesn’t, and always has a new creation.



JASON: I thought one of my servers could use a little more time understanding the menu. I asked what Charmoula beef was, and the server seemed bewildered by the question. “Uh, it’s a special sauce,” the server said. When, in reality, Charmoula beef is a marinade from North Africa consisting mostly of cumin, clove, olive oil, and coriander. Incidentally, it was also my favorite item on the Crown Bar’s menu. The succulent, and I mean tender, beef arrived on two small skewers over a cous cous with a side of pita bread. The pita was the best I have had — crisp, flaky, aromatic. This is the meal to order during happy hour. Amazing!



JAKE: I don’t start my nights at the Crown Bar, I always end them there. The eclectic music — classic to indie rock most nights, the fireplace, late dining hours, and fun — but not pounding Sex on the Beach shots fun — crowd keeps the party alive for me. I need comfort food after a show or bar-hopping and Crown’s earthy zihua mushroom quesadilla and creamy Cougar Gold mac and cheese eases me home every time. Split them with your mate for the night.



JASON: This is comfort food with an exotic bent. The menu is chock full of great late night treats. I adored the fried oysters, roasted garlic tartar and Creole slaw. The oysters were crisp, not greasy, and they melted in my mouth — not a hint of sand.

MENU

Zihua quesadilla >> $8

Charmoula beef kebabs >> $10

Cougar Gold mac and cheese >> $12

Bacon breadcrumb trout >> $18

Flat iron steak >> $24

Crown Bar

Where: 2705 Sixth Ave., Tacoma, 253.272.4177.

Hours: 5 p.m. to midnight Tuesday-Thursday; 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday-Saturday; 5-11 p.m. Sunday

Cuisine: Gastro-pub

Scene: Neighborhood bar without the hobos Drinkies: Oh, you bet!