ANNOUNCER: There are things in this life that make the boys believe in a higher power: Sipping Silver Oak Cabernet on a beach at sunset; Jeff Buckley records; Fender guitars and women’s orgasms; Sofia Bistro’s lemon crème, just to name a few.

They’re made from scratch — the lemon crèmes, that is — lemon, cream and vodka in a tiny sipping cup — so creamy delicious they can’t stand it. Putting one of Sofia’s lemon crèmes to your lips seems like behavior that should get you arrested. They’re so good it’s criminal ... and godly.

JAKE: Oh yes, the lemon crème. I enjoy beginning and ending my meal at Sofia Bistro with these treats. In fact, Creig Kostoff’s Sofia Bistro is a treat in itself. Its upscale feel and casual comfort together with innovative new American-style cuisine (sans sauce-drowned entrees and piles of cheese), and an intelligently designed and reasonably priced wine menu, swills through my brain frequently, and would even if the lemon crème weren’t an option.

It should be noted that Lucas Willis has replaced Troy Reich as commander of Sofia’s kitchen. We tasted the work of both. Willis doesn’t skip a beat and, in fact, he will add his favorite pasta dishes to the menu soon.

JASON: I might get called a wuss for this, but I thought the lemon crème tasted too strongly of vodka and could have used less lemon. I only took a few sips. Intelligent is a perfect word for the wine selection, and for the staff as well. Waiter Nicholas talked lovingly about their wine selections like they were well known members of his family. Seven Hills Viognier (Wash. 2006) complimented the candied walnut and fine cheese appetizer just as he said it would and even worked with the lightly creamed asparagus and leek soup.

JAKE: If it’s on the special list, begin with the salmon cakes — perfectly pan-seared, with nicely crisped edges sitting on a corn-red pepper salsa.

Grab a knife and grab a slice of cheese. Sofia’s nightly fine cheese selection featured white cheddar, sage derby, blue and pinkerton cheeses surrounded by spicy glazed walnuts, dried Rainier cherries and rustic crackers. The big and chewy Caro red (Argentine 2002) off the Captain’s List steered my meal perfectly throughout the night.

JASON: This is truly a place where the term “special of the night” means the dishes offered really will be special and not the chef’s way of clearing out items. The special I enjoyed was rack of lamb with a lightly creamed mint sauce and a gluttonous portion of the bluest of blue cheese mashed potatoes. The lamb was moist and seasoned only slightly as to not overwhelm the favor of the juicy meat itself. A side dish of lightly sautéed zucchini, yellow squash, onions and red peppers was served family style in a boat for sharing. Nice old world touch.

JAKE: All entrees, ranging from wild mushroom and spinach rigatoni with spicy pomodoro sauce and sweet roasted garlic ($18) to skillet seared tenderloin of beef with sauce marchands de vin ($26), arrived in perfect portions. Didn’t unbutton my pants once.

The seared duck breast ($25) fanned over wild mushroom risotto arrived as ordered — cooked medium rare, succulent and pink. A mirabelle plum gastrique sweetly kissed it, with a plum chunk as garnish. The risotto was fresh with meaty grains.

JASON: True, portion size was refreshingly reasonable — neither humongous nor miniscule, but I was disappointed by the lemon prawns with artichoke hearts ($19). Don’t get me wrong, the prawns, sautéed in olive oil and herbs, were firm but not rubbery.

Accents of sweet cherry tomatoes and mildly overpowering Kalamata olive flavor were easily spotted, but the preserved lemons that were mentioned on the menu turned out to be inch-and-a-half-long pieces of lemon rind. Lemon flavor could only be detected if one bit directly into a piece. While the rigatoni was pleasingly al dente, it was completely bare of seasoning or spice. It seems no attempt to ‘dress’ the pasta was made as the prawns were laid directly on top.

JAKE: The service was excellent — not wise, not smothering, not snooty, but like a friend making sure I had a great experience — a soothing, almost pampering, atmosphere. It can be intimate (lighting, candlelight, great wine, soft music) although the tables are close. The restaurant can function as a stage for romance, relaxation or gourmandizing: whatever you like.

JASON: Desserts are made from scratch and rotate often. Flourless chocolate truffle cake was incredibly rich and dense. The medium sized wedge lay on the plate like a thick heavy brick on top of a berry drizzle. Light and vanilla sweet whip cream floated across the top. Sipping an easy drinking malbec while mashing that cake around with one’s tongue is why they call it “food porn.” The wine and food selections will change with the season to keep the ingredients fresh.

Sofia Bistro

Where: 2700 Bridgeport Way W., University Place, 253.460.9446

When: Monday-Saturday 5-9 p.m. Sofia Bistro stopped lunches after this review posted.

Scene: Intimate setting with close seating and professional service.

Menu: Meat, fish and pasta with European spices for dinner.

Drinkies: Impressive, wine list with big pours by the glass that won’t make your wallet cry.

Damage: $18-$26 for dinner