ANNOUNCER: Although fast-casual Mex is all the rage today - and with good reason, in the case of Lakewood's Taco Guaymas - high-end Mexican fare has hit Tacoma's Sixth Avenue in the form of Masa Comida Mexicana.  The food is a combination of uppity Mexican standards (tacos, burritos and enchiladas) glamorized by fancy sauces; Southwestern resort food (grilled pork in a pumpkin seed sauce, fender T-bone grilled with guajillo chili butter, turkey leg mole), and a slight abuelita-style Tex-Mex that so impressed the boys that they were able to forget the tiny Tex part and concentrate on the Mex. Masa offers handcrafted, exotic drinks, massive fiery "Nachordinary" nachos, and a chile relleno that is so deliciously bad for you it's like swallowing a cholesterol hand grenade, but so good that you don't care. And all of this is served in an environment that is stylish, metropolitan minimalism combined with everything you seek in a Mexican restaurant.



JAKE: Well, that's a wrap.  Thanks, folks.



JASON: Mr. Announcer went off.  Let's see how long the salary boost sticks.



JAKE: This Sixth Avenue beauty from the X Group Restaurants team that brought Argentine dining sensation Asado across the street has screamed metropolitan meets Mexico since early December 2006. Robert Williamson, the same artist who painted Asado's mural, splashed a cool-toned, Posada-inspired Dia de los Muertos-theme mural on the west wall, adding color to the downstairs dining/lounge area rooted in dark woods and metal with modern twists.  Like Asado, garage doors will share the area's warm weather with diners who will be pushed into place on moveable, round banquette high-back seats.



JASON: This space that once housed Lorenzo's and Ricardo's labyrinth of rooms has opened up with a simple downstairs space, a private upstairs dining hall, deck overlooking the Engine House, and a small café in the corner open 24 hours Friday and Saturday. I feel as if a techno DJ will bust out any second, especially after pushing through the heavy metal front door, as opposed to the Tuscany feel of Asado. Although warm and inviting, Masa is more the wild sibling in the family.



The service is friendly, keeping with the tradition of the place - low-key, warm, unpretentious and a little sassy.



JAKE: Yes, an undeniably beautiful, upscale Mexican restaurant, Masa carries all the key ingredients for success: proven ownership; a talented master chef and co-owner in Sean Quinn; a roster of interesting, creative dishes; a kitchen that's capable of executing those dishes; a service staff that tries hard, knows its stuff and smiles a lot; and tequilas - lots of tequilas. Lots of creative drinks too.  I favor Metaxa sidecar - a little like a stripped-down margarita, on the sweet side with sweet and sour, Cointreau and sugar rim but definitely packing clout with the Greek brandy.



JASON: I dove into the cactus salad - a collection of cold cactus strips (minus the thorns), poached and tossed with cucumbers, red pepper, and cherry tomatoes in a cilantro-lime vinaigrette.  Baked goat cheese with hazelnuts rounded out the salad, which was more than I could eat.  The combinations worked, but I could have done with half the size. My diminutive appetite could have been the result of all the Azul margaritas I drank, an exquisite combination of great tequila and native juices that is as refreshing as the breeze blowing off the Mexican coast.

JAKE: Some might be surprised that 1,000 items don't grace the menu - typical for Mexican restaurants in this area.  With a name like Masa you might expect más choices.  Quality rules here.  The dishes are well outside the usual Mexican repertoire of green chile, burritos and anything covered with cheap, gloppy cheese. Not that those things are inherently bad, but there's much, much more to Mexican cooking than the Americanized items we're so fond of in this town. Masa gives us a taste of what's out there: Oaxaca cheese, maple syrup, achiote, jicama, and crema fresca (Mexico's answer to crème fraîche).



Long, caramelized onions swim in the sweet butternut squash soup drizzled with crema fresca in an oblong bowl on top of a corn husk.  It's a delicious meal in itself.  I thought the tortilla soup with a few chunks of chicken and traditional avocado floaters spiced out the flavor; although, the tortilla strips were the perfect texture.  The Queso Fondido with chorizo and five cheeses was a cheesy delight although after five bites I had a cheese roof in my mouth.  I will sacrifice again.



JASON: The short ribs are oh-my-Quetzalcoatl good.  One, long, fatty, moist strip of short rib over three rib bones drizzled in a tangy barbecue sauce and served simply with rice and beans took my breath away.  The meat was moist in a decadent and bad for the heart kind of way, which is OK sometimes.  It's what red meat lovers should stick on the end of a guidon as they march into battle with vegetarians.  It made me want to join a stroke survivors class at the Y only so that I can indulge more often but know I'll still be supported in the future.



JAKE: Your sentiment can be applied to my love for Masa's corn bread.  I want to roll around in it then run through the Y.  I don't know what that means.  Baked with jack cheese and pepper, these chunks of heaven do not need butter.

I will need to run at the Y after the rich, creamy smoked prime rib chile relleno, rolled in cornmeal and sitting on a bed of rice.  It's a mound of a meal.  Adding the sinful Mexican street corn side dish - a full roasted ear drenched in mayo, cheese, lime, and chili seasonings with the end husk twisted into a rope - is too much.  Don't combine these two but don't skip them.



JASON: While it's certainly no short rib, the Carne Asada is a simple flatiron type steak with a mild sauce also served with rice and beans.  Tender to the slice, flavorful and robust, it's an OK substitute for the short ribs, but I wouldn't ever settle for second best. 



JAKE: I like my steak thin with my tortillas.  Masa's steak is huge with authentic beans but tasteless rice.  The tortillas were too small and thin.  I like my tortillas thick, hot and comforting.



For a light meal, try the meatball pizza accented with cornmeal in the crust, smoky, chocolaty molé for sauce and Oaxaca cheese that translates like gooey mozzarella.  It's intriguing and exotic, but not in that pretentious Wolfgang Puck way.



We have to wrap this review up.  I imagine we're in the music section by now.



JASON: Wait!  I don't know how - after the tasty margaritas, heavy creams, and huge portions - you will scarf down the quince-brioche (think apple) bread pudding with whipped cream, but you must.

Masa Comida Mexicana

Where: 2811 Sixth Ave., Tacoma, 253.254.0560

When: Breakfast Saturday and Sunday 7-11 a.m., brunch Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., lunch Monday-Friday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., dinner 5-10 p.m. daily, bar menu served to 2 a.m., open 24 hours on Friday and Saturday in less than two months.

Scene: A blend of stylish, metropolitan minimalism combined with everything you like about Mexican restaurants - color, smells, sounds, activity, and amazing food.  Start the countdown to the upstairs deck opening.

Menu: High-end creative Mexican fare with plenty of spice and exotic ingredients, freshly made tortillas and house smoked meats. The café serves a more traditional list of burritos, tacos and tortas.

Drinkies: It claims Tacoma's largest tequila selection (we lose count every time), plus innovative cocktails with freshly squeezed juices.

Damage: Dinner $17-$27, pizza $12-$15 and appetizers $6-$12